triumph spitfire

[bluehornetrider]

Out with my family in Bradford on Avon today and passed hairysanta and full pint pulled in on the side of the road,  sorry I couldn't stop and help but I didn't have any tools with me and you'd stopped in an ackward place.  Pretty sure if you two can't fix the problem there's little hope for the rest of us.  Nice to see your cars out on the road though

[fullpint]

What car were you in? I saw a Robin coming towards us not long after leaving B-o-A towards Bath..

[bluehornetrider]

Cheeky git, I was in the shiny blue pug 3008, I waved at Pete and as I went past.  Some day I'll get out in my spitfire.
Hope you sorted out the problem ok.  I heard something far too noisy for civilised cars drive off as I was down by the river.

[bluehornetrider]

The sheared water pump bolt has now been removed from the cylinder head, found that the bolt was topping out and pinched which caused the bolt to shear, then found that the 3 water pump retaining bolts are all different   So I ordered the 3 different bolts from canleys only to have them delivered all in the same labeled bag so I still don't know which one is which , also bought new temp sensors and gaskets to fit the heat shield.

[fullpint]

Pop a depth gauge (or just a thin screw driver) into the threaded holes to measure the depth of each. Do this with the housing just held in place and measure from the housing down thru into the thread.

[bluehornetrider]

cheers for that tip, I know which bolts which in relation to the serial number and the sixe of the bolt and where it goes on the engine.

[bluehornetrider]

I feel the need to scream, my pug 3008 has blown a DRL and I went to halfords to pick up a new one, only they don't supply them, came home to look on google, struggled but found a site that could supply LED replacement.  Peugeot forum says that PUK charge £38per bulb which I can verify and they have to order them in.  They also have to remove the headlight to replace the bleeding things.

I got the new bulbs through which look great and went out to replace the bulb, after a hour of struggling with the bulb holder, contorting my arm working back to front and blind, having to use a Torx40 tool as it's the only way to release the bulb   I finally got one out, the bulb sits in a little holder but the bulb has 2 long pins that slot into the holder and the LED I got were standard bayonet fitting.  They company I got the LED's from don't supply the bulbs I need and don't think that they will be getting any soon. 

Who's silly idea was it to make a consumable item into a £38 per bulb super rare almost impossible to get at item, which is also an MOT failure item?

[Hairy Santa]

sounds just like PUGS

had one in for brake faults 30years ago  - bits were so expensive and hard to get the car got scraped in the end

hope your having more luck with the other toy

[bluehornetrider]

Managed to find an LED replacement 2 for £5 so wasn't too worried if they didn't fit.
Had to butcher the bulb holder but it worked , tried to get the other one out, got the torx40 bit and unlocked it but it still wouldn't drop out!  even getting some grips on it wouldn't shift it, after fighting for half hour until my hand turned red I gave up and will just have to live with an odd pair, did save me £38 quid though. 

[Hairy Santa]

Managed to find an LED replacement 2 for £5 so wasn't too worried if they didn't fit.
Had to butcher the bulb holder but it worked , tried to get the other one out, got the torx40 bit and unlocked it but it still wouldn't drop out!  even getting some grips on it wouldn't shift it, after fighting for half hour until my hand turned red I gave up and will just have to live with an odd pair, did save me £38 quid though.

Result, its nice to keep a few Quid in your pocket 

[bluehornetrider]

Got the rocker cover extension fasteners from canleys so will have to find time to fit them.

[bluehornetrider]

tried to fit the rocker cover extension fastners but the sit too high now and don't clamp the rocker cover down tight   I have ordered a few odds and sods from Moss but have been waiting 2 weeks already.  Seem to have a problem fitting the fuel pump to the engine, the crusty old one I ttok off the engine had a thick fibrous spacer which I can't seem to source now!  I have started to fit the rear brake drum and after cleaning the carbs am attempting to make them work again.

[robp]

Heh, you're back!

tried to fit the rocker cover extension fastners but the sit too high now and don't clamp the rocker cover down tight

I have two posts out the top of the cylinder head which are just about the same height as the rocker cover.  There is a special nut that just fit through the hole in the rocker cover and screws on to each post.

I have started to fit the rear brake drum and after cleaning the carbs am attempting to make them work again.

I hope it goes more smoothly than your left-hand side rear brake.  I'm sure you know what to do now though.   I will be starting on the rear brakes on my Spit soon so I'll know who to ask when it all goes Pete Tong.

[bluehornetrider]

The original fitting for the cylinder head was the two threaded bolts that just clear the cover, with a nut that was bending the rocker cover so that they would fit on, I wasn't happy with this so ordered the extension fastners but the sit too proud and don't tighten down the rocker cover.  Have chased up my moss order and found they had carb ferrules on back order but didn't feel the need to tell me about it, so I'm getting the rest of the order sent through.

[bluehornetrider]

I have fitted the water return pipe today, the front Nearside brake line is fitted and the carbs and the heatshield is all back on the engine.

[bluehornetrider]

Had a late cancellation this morning so I got to spend a few hours with the Spit.  Fitted the grease cap and split pin to the front and fitted the wheel, moved to the back drum and found that there is no brake pipe bracket for the flexible hose to the copper at the back of the brake drum rear plate.  I have a loose bracket but need to find a way of fitting it, any ideas guys? 

The front flexible hose just touches the tyre on full left lock and I don't see any way to change the fact, can't see me driving around on full lock too often though as the turning circle is super tight.

I need to get a new jubilee clip for the water return pipe as the original is solid.

[bluehornetrider]

Have now gotten some jubilee clips for the hoses, heat shrink and electrical connectors.  Also picked up a brake adjuster all from the Shepton Mallet car show.
I'd put some pictures of the show on bit the puter won't let me.  Keeps telling me the file limit is exceeded whatever the size of the picture

[bluehornetrider]

Managed to put the rear drum brake back together but now can't get the drum itself on over the pads, remember having the same trouble on the other side.

I still can't upload any photo's at the moment, don't know why the system won't let me.

[Bulldog Bri]

You'll need to let off the handbrake adjuster loads before new shoes will fit in the drum. 

[bluehornetrider]

I don't seem to be able to move the adjuster at all.  I might have to change it.
I bought a pair or air filters for the spit to replace the broken K&N's but they are too small so I will have to think of something else.  £10 to anyone who wants them, brand new in box classic gold GFE1063

[YellaBelly]

Must admit, I'm watching yours and Rob's refurb with interest, might get some pointers for the Spridget

[bluehornetrider]

With a little help from my friend I managed to get the seized brake adjuster off the back wheel.  Even in the bench it didn't want to move, so have ordered an new one from Canleys along with a few other bits and pieces.

[YellaBelly]

Heat is your friend 

Did you try heat (lots of it)? I've managed to free stuff I thought was on there forever by giving it a good dousing of heat.

The thing to remember is:

Similar metals - i.e. steel on steel:        heat
Dissimilar metals - i.e. steel on alloy    heat then quick cooling by quenching in water (just don't get it over hot incase the alloy melts! )

Works for me pretty much every time

[bluehornetrider]

[bluehornetrider]

[bluehornetrider]

I have a brand new mild steel mid pipe for the spitfire which will fit a 1500 with a twin port manifold and downpipe available if anyone wants it. It won't fit my car as I have a single port manifold.
I have replaced the brake adjuster but still can't get the drum back on.  Very fustrating

[Hairy Santa]

I have a brand new mild steel mid pipe for the spitfire which will fit a 1500 with a twin port manifold and downpipe available if anyone wants it. It won't fit my car as I have a single port manifold.
I have replaced the brake adjuster but still can't get the drum back on.  Very fustrating

Hi mate - have you let the handbrake cable right off

you could try putting leading edges on both brake shoe's that some times helps

[Bulldog Bri]

Agree with Santa. Brake adjuster needs to be completely released and handbrake off before even trying to put the drum back and even then will need to be wriggled into place then tighten up the adjuster til the wheel starts to bind on the shoes, with that done make sure the brakes are bled then press the foot brake down a few times to even out the shoe pressure, recheck the adjuster with the hand brake off, you should just hear or feel the shoes rubbing. Just done it all on mine. (and never do the small screw that holds the drum on to tight as it will be a bugger to get off next time, just a gentle nip)

[Hairy Santa]

Agree with Santa. Brake adjuster needs to be completely released and handbrake off before even trying to put the drum back and even then will need to be wriggled into place then tighten up the adjuster til the wheel starts to bind on the shoes, with that done make sure the brakes are bled then press the foot brake down a few times to even out the shoe pressure, recheck the adjuster with the hand brake off, you should just hear or feel the shoes rubbing. Just done it all on mine. (and never do the small screw that holds the drum on to tight as it will be a bugger to get off next time, just a gentle nip)

and as I was told by one expert many years ago " don't forget to put that small screw in, because if you don't - the wheel will fall off 

[bluehornetrider]

Cheers for the help, I think I had one of the pads upside down but I was following the instructions, I'll give it another go soon, it's too damn hot in the garage to do anything at the moment.

[bluehornetrider]

managed to get the drum on with brute force but found it was still too tight, slightly misaimed persuader hit one of the wheel studs which then dropped into the drum.  It all came back off again including the retaining springs.  I got it all back together then tried the drum which slipped straight on without a problem   I just have to fill the system with new fluid and bleed it all.  I have to get a bracket on the back of one of the drums welded back on first though.

Need to save some money up and get the welding and body painted up next.

[Moleman]

Perhaps you, Yellabelly & Robp should hire a garage with a compressor & spend a weekend doing all three in one go! 

[YellaBelly]

Perhaps you, Yellabelly & Robp should hire a garage with a compressor & spend a weekend doing all three in one go! 

Must admit, me and Jan are wondering if it would be a viable proposition to restore classics as a business Just need some collatoral and some cars

[bluehornetrider]

Not quite ready for paint as I need the welding doing first.
Now the brake lines are in I will start on the clutch, how can I check if the clutch is worth keeping or replacing?

[robp]

how can I check if the clutch is worth keeping or replacing?

I didn't have the engine and box out of my Spit so just hoped the clutch would be OK.  It was seized as the car had been laid up for so long but freed off easily enough when I got the engine running.

Yours is out of the car, isn't it.  I'm not sure how to check a clutch with it sitting on the bench.  Anyone else help here?

[YellaBelly]

I would give the friction plate a real good check-over and make sure there is no sign of any contaminant such as oil etc.

Also make sure there is a good mm or so before you are down to the rivets.

Sometimes it can be worth running some medium grit wet&dry over the friction plate and the clutch/flywheel face just to make sure they are a little scrubbed for better friction. Once done, just give them a wipe off with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or similar.

Other than that I can't think what else other than fitting it

HTH

[bluehornetrider]

cheers for the advice, hope you had a dry run on sunday.

[bluehornetrider]

As my computer doesn't want me to upload pictures at the moment I'll just have to tell you that the spit is booked in for welding and paint in September. 
I have painted the radiator with high temp black paint and painted the gearbox so it's al looking a lot better.

[bluehornetrider]

I have mounted the rad to the frame and cleaned up one of my alternators and mounted to the engine, unfortunately I can't get the fan belt to fit over so will have to get another slightly longer belt.  I have fitted the doors lower valances and headlight surrounds on a temporary basis as these items need to get welded and painted.

I bought second hand rad support brackets, over-rider covers, rear lights with gaskets, radiator cowl boards and engine side boards but am looking at replicating these fibreboard items in stainless now I have templates to work from.

I have started work on the seat base frames and the starter motor as well.   

[bluehornetrider]

i'm sure I ordered a 1500 spitfire fanbelt but it's nearly an inch shy of the tightest setting, my engine no. is YC58273HE would this make a difference?  is it from a dolomite?  any help would be appreciated.