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Another Classic joins the Fold!

Started by YellaBelly, 08, May, 2013, 02:41:27 PM

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fullpint


YellaBelly

Do I detect a bias towards yellow Steve? :D :D :D ;)

Moleman


YellaBelly

Starting to get cracking on the rebuild now whilst wating for the paint to cure. She saw the sun for the first time in a while today:










Pretty bright huh?  ;D ;D ;D

BTW, she's not going for the drag strip, those wheels are off the old Golf, the rears had to go on the wrong way round as the tyres are too fat. The Rostyles are off for refurbing.

Daley Down Under

Excellent progress JB - who's doing the rostyles?

YellaBelly


fullpint

Quote from: YellaBelly on 01, September, 2013, 06:48:07 AM
Steve (fullpint) hopefully :)
8) Will try my very best to get them looking good again.. Got your number mate..

YellaBelly

Well, Bri did say it was time for some updates so here we go. Been pretty busy most evenings this week, got the dash sorted and the wiring re-fitted and me and Jan finally got the engine in place tonight. Not connected up yet, but that's the easy bit :D










and just a reminder of what a lovely car we started with ;D ;D



fullpint

 8).. The bugs are gonna like the MG next summer-time.. Dam its bright.. Looking good tho JB. Love it..

Moleman

That is going to be one tidy looking motor mate.  :)

YellaBelly

I hope so Colin, we have put a damn lot of hours into it so far!

And yes Steve, I agree with the bugs thing, that's why I was so worried when I was painting it, 'cos they just love yellow for some reason :)

Daley Down Under

Dilemma - which one to drive next Summer? Looking good JB

Adrian

YellaBelly

We've had our summer for the rest of this decade mate, so won't have that dilema! :)

At least you should have that choice where you are chap ;)

Glad we're getting near the end though, thought it would never happen!

'The Gaffer'

Impressive work there JB, will be a great example when finished 8)

robp

Wow, great progress.  Very smart!  8)

YellaBelly

Well, almost ready for an attempt to start the Midget :o :o

Just need to sort out the coolant, make up some plug leads and grab the fire extinguisher! :D




'The Gaffer'

Dont forget the Youtube vid.

Looks great mate 8)

Daley Down Under

Too clean to eat your dinner off JB  :D

Daley Down Under

Good luck with the start attempt (I'm sure you'll only need one).

Bulldog Bri

Gone very quite here JB, whats going on with Jan's car? ::)

8)

paintman

#100
To get the best finish JB, you should 'mop it' using an electric or ideally an air mop running off your compressor .

You go over the whole car with coarse compound followed by medium, then fine.

It's the only way to get a professional finish......don't mess about with tee cut or you will end up knacked with an
inferior job as well, let the machine do the work!


YellaBelly

#101
Hi all!

Not really had a lot of time or weather to do much to the Midget. As I don't have a garage now I'm more dependent on the weather being kind. I am in the process of trying to rent the building at the back of our property off the landlord so then at least I can work undercover.

The engine is running, but very rich and the tappets sound noiser than I would expect for the 1500 engine. I think I may have the gaps wrong which won't help the rich running. Not sure what needles the carbs have, maybe they are not right for that engine? I've never worked with SUs before so a little in-the-dark :( Any ideas Rob? ;)

Also got to finish putting the new seat covers on and finish off the interior, then need to get plates made up and go for the MOT once the engine is running better :o

Tony, I have got a polisher, it's only a rotary so needs to be kept wet to avoid burning the paint, but I am going to get some G6 as the cutting compound I have at the minute is a little fine I think.

I'll try and keep you updated with the progress :)

robp

Quote from: YellaBelly on 28, April, 2014, 03:54:26 PM

As I don't have a garage now I'm more dependent on the weather being kind.


Yep, same here, mate.  I have a garage but the Westy is in there.  My Spit has been outside under a cover since we moved house two months ago.  No progress for ages as I have a dozen things to do on the new house but I should have an update soon.

robp

Quote from: YellaBelly on 28, April, 2014, 03:54:26 PM

I've never worked with SUs before so a little in-the-dark :( Any ideas Rob? ;)


Before the Spit I didn't have any experience of SUs.  Having rebuild mine and started playing I'm getting there.  Still loads to learn.

Iancider

#104
A bit of internet research specifies AAU needles with yellow return springs as standard for the 1500 Midget.  If I remember right the number is engraved on the fixing end of the needle.

You will need a carb (air) balancer to set them up and ideally the old colourtune spark plug that lets you see the burn colour - should be a good bright blue when the correct mixture.  The mixture is set by adjusting the needle-body (jet) below the carb up and down until the mixture burns blue in the cylinder head and each carb must have the same airflow.  Balance is achieved by adjusting the butterfly opening on each until they are the same airflow and then adjusting the tickover.  Several repeats are required until you get all three right.  The mixture is never perfect between the inner and outer cylinders just get the best compromise.  Adjust a littel on the lean side to allow for the air resistance of the filter when you fit it.

For a tool free coarse set-up:  Warm the engine to full running temperature.  Listen to the induction chuff from each carb and balance them until they sound the same.  Using a pipe/hose to you ear helps.  Go to the exhaust and sniff it and listen to the sound.  Rich, smells oily/sooty, and there is usually trace black smoke.  When too weak or too rich the tickover is also lumpy.  If too weak is has a hunting beat-missing kind of sound and if to rich is has a soft misfire sort of pom-pom sound.  It sounds right somewhere in the middle.  Mixture affects the burn rate and so interacts with the ignition advance.  The static advance would normally be about 7 degrees and the vacuum advance from the manifold will advance it under load to about 11 degrees from memory.  If it is too far advanced expect some "pinking" with large throttle openings under load.  That bit needs road testing.  Lead substitute fuel is required or putting in you own additive would be necessary for this one as they were designed to operate on leaded fuel.  If the compresson is above about 10:1 you will need to add an anti-knocking agent to your 4* (98 Octane) fuel to reproduce the old and extinct 5* (101 octane).  (compression pressure > 175 psi) But I think the standard car ran on 4* anyway.

Gosh I felt all nostalgic as I said that....  good luck with it!

Ian

Bulldog Bri

#105
I have a copy of 'David Vizards, tuning the 'A' series engine' the old bible for getting the best out of these engines. Happy to lend out to anyone wanting a little light bedtime read ;D

The standard Mini engine on the cover went from 53bhp with 68ft lb torque to 138bhp and 112ft lb :o

8)

YellaBelly

Thanks for the input guys! :D

I have got a set of vacuum gauges and a colourtune. The colourtune is what showed me how rich it is running. I have tried to get the jet body to a position where it will burn more blue, but cannot, so that's what makes me think the neddles may be wrong.

I need to re-check the valve gaps and ignition timing again then I will see what happens. If I get no joy I will have to look at the needles and see if i can get a more suitable set.

Daley Down Under

JB - there's some great SU internet sites which give you all needle profiles (catalogued against the individual letter codes).  You can find yours then find a rich profile and order from Rimmer Bros or similar.  It was a god send for finding a rich needle for the Moke.  Let me know if you want me to look them out.

Cheers Adrian 

YellaBelly

Well, did some more on the Midget and re-set the tappets as they were still way off! Had a leak from both float bowls on the SUs again, I thought that cleaning them had cured it but it dodn't last long so I've ordered some new jets and needles for the float chambers.

For anyone else that's running SUs, I found a couple of pretty informative sessions on 'tinternet:




As a trainer myself I found myself picking the guy up on his delivery techniques  :P ;D I just can't help myself :), but some good info, and a really good insight into how simple the SU is :D

All I need to do now is stop the damn things running rich, I checked the needles and they are the correct ones according to Moss info, so I'm hoping it is a high float bowl level causing it so will see when I get the new parts.

Iancider

John,

Almost any needle and jet should set-up okay at tickover.  The float needle could be leaking as you say but it is more likely that the float level is too high or more likely still, the choke mechanism is open.  The choke is realy simple and lowers the jet and so pulls the needle a little further out of the hole to deliver more fuel.  The jet is altered by the rise and fall nut adjuster underneath so it should be possible to gain the right mixture at tickover even with the wrong needle.  If not then the choke could be held open forcing the jet too low and continuously rich.  Thought - are you just missing the return sping that closes the choke?

Also remember the simple dash-pot on the top of the carb - it damps the rising piston and just needs a spot of light oil in it to work.  If it is not present then the pot is dry the piston can rise to the peak vacuum position and will make the mixture too rich - all it needs is a could of drops of light machine oil in there to damp that out.

Good luck, Ian

YellaBelly

Thanks Ian. The choke mechanism is fine as far as I can tell, it falls and rises as it should and neither are sticking. As for the dampers, I have dashpot oil in both, but they won't cause it to run permanantly rich they just stop a sudden rush of fuel when you put your foot down which would over-fuel the engine, the oil simply dampens the piston rising. I'm pretty sure it is the fuel levels in the float chambers which is the problem, I have been on several forums and all seem to agree it is a very common fault which will overfuel the engine, and as both leak from the overflow I am hoping the new needles/jets will cure it. I'll find out tommorrow as they came this afternoon :)

Watch this space.........

peterw

It's the other way round John, the oil dampens the lift of the piston which in turn draws more fuel from the jet when flooring the throttle which richens the mixture on take off. You can experiment with different oil weights, if you get stutter when hitting the throttle, mixture too weak, increase oil weight ie a nice bit of engine oil, this will richen the mixture on throttle. I have even heard of people mixing grease with good old 20/50 to get it even richer to get a better take off and responce!!!
This link might be usefull    http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-su-carburetters

benchmark51

I worked on this type of vehicle at Henlys and Lex (1970-80) and always used engine oil in the dashpots. At that time it was 20/50 grade. Topped up to the top of the piston tube. What they don't want was chucked out.
Float level is all important on this carb, but I don't remember what it was. Find out, also make sure carbs are syncronised at all throttle openings, not just tickover. :)

peterw

If there is fuel coming out of the overflows, definately check the float level height and / or float valves to make sure they are closing and sealing. If they are HS 's this is quite easy to do.

YellaBelly

Peter, the way I understand it is that when you put your foot down, you open the butterfly in the venturi, that causes more vacuum above the piston via chambers in the body which then lifts the piston and hence the needle. That is why the oil is needed so the piston isn't lifted too quickly. Mine was throwing loads of black smoke on putting the pedal down because I lost most of the oil when I checked the needle size. I replaced the dashpot oil and the black smoke almost dissapeared. If you watch those video links I posted they explain it quite well.

I replaced the float needles and seats and fitted the new gaskets and the floats no longer leak. The car does seem to run a little better, but I am still getting black smoke out of the exhaust a little. I need to check the timing again (when I get a new strobe, mine has quit on me!)

I will then get the colourtune on it and if it is still as rich as it seems then I think I may have to get some new main jets :(

Bulldog Bri

I replaced the jets on my first Bulldog as you could actually see looking at them the jet hole was an oval not a clean circle. Apart from that it wax just down to adjusting them.

8)

peterw

Black smoke = Too much fuel or not enough air, same thing really too rich :) Get the Colourtune on it

YellaBelly

Bri, looks like that is my next move I think.

Peter, I know black smoke is too rich, that is what's annoying me, as although putting oil in the dashpots got rid of the majority of the black smoke on throttle-up, all plugs are still sooted up and you can smell the rich burn checking the exhaust. I have the jet adjustment nuts screwed right up (leanest setting - jet at it's highest point) and they are still letting too much fuel in. I am running for testing with the air filters off so she should be getting plenty of air. Looks like hand in pocket time again :(

At least I'm not missing the warm/dry weather at the minute :)

Pilgrim Anna

So its that two MG projects on the go? I think they are gorgeous. Look forward to seeing them ;D

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