Front Wheel Bearings Midget

[mr tone]

Hi as well as a kitcar i also have a Mg Midget and wondered if anyone had experience
of changing front wheel bearings.Internet search gives conflicting advice Tony

[fullpint]

Not sure if this video is of any good... MGB..

[Hairy Santa]

what ever you do make sure you don't run them tight - very important - must have a couple of thou end float

[YellaBelly]

I agree with Pete, I've just put the front suspension back together on ours and tightened them down to the recommended torque of 45lb/ft (I think that is about 61 Nm) and then to the nearest split-pin hole. It does recommend tightening further to the nearest hole but I prefer to go looser if it is more then half-way to that hole - if that makes sens?

That does of course depend on whether you have taper bearings or straight ball race.

HTH

JB

[dikkie]

Are you sure they need replacing? I only say because I thought the wheel bearings were going on my midget, after a lot of  googling* it became apparent that the midget's bearings are actually quite good and should outlast the car ( if properly maintained), which would explain why MG made them so damn hard to replace. It ended up being excessive play in the king pins.

As for changing the bearings, I was put off by the number of people having problems with non OEM bearings not fitting quite right... make sure you get the right ones.


* other search engines are available

[Hairy Santa]

if you are replacing the bearings make sure you seat the tracks right down into where they fit, normally use the old track or a socket of the right size - this is important

[mr tone]

Thanks for your replies.MOT guy said that the bearings needed sorting but posts on internet are really off putting Tony

[fullpint]

Thanks for your replies.MOT guy said that the bearings needed sorting but posts on internet are really off putting Tony

Take it to a different MOT place. They may not pick up on it  Sorted then.

[dikkie]

Take it to a different MOT place. They may not pick up on it  Sorted then.

I agree - they were designed to have a bit of play in them, enough to class as a fail on a modern car.

I can recommend Midland Car Co. behind Sainsburys in Bath - they are very sympathetic to classics, and if not there's an MG specialist a few doors down...

[Newton]

Hi,

I ran a Round Wheel Arch for 10 years involving a complete rebuild.  It really isn't difficult.  Wheel off, calliper off and tied back to the lever arm, remove dust cap and spit pin then undo the nut.  Hub will then pull off.  Onto bench and pull out the rear seal , if you've got original bearings fitted then you should be able to easily push the centre out allowing you to remove the balls and the spacer, degrease and inspect you should be able to see pitting of the bearing tracks if they're u/s.  If not then using a drift knock the bearings out (there is a recess in the hubs bearing seat to allow you to do this easily) ready for replacement, you will find a spacer between the two bearings which you will need to remember to stick in when you replace the bearings.

New bearings should press in easily either by chasing round the edge of the outer race or by using a bench vice (would need to remove disc - but then that's only 4 bolts and you might be able to improve stopping with some up graded discs _ look up Peter May) Don't forget the spacer!

Reassembling is as dismantling, as there is a bearing spacer you should be following the manual and torqueing up plus a bit to the next split pin slot.  You always find they are a bit looser than you'd set up a set of taper roller bearings.

I'd only put the job at 3 to 4 out of 10.

You're lucky if its only the wheel bearings many MOT testers find the normal play in the front suspension beyond their experience and therefore fail you worth finding an understanding tester.  I'd recommend Ubley Motors they've always been very reasonable with me and my vehicles.

Hope this helps

Rob

[mr tone]

Thanks Rob after reading your post i will give it a go Tony