Been rebuildimg a 4.6 Rover lump.

[Dixie]

For nearly a year or so I have been rebuilding my 4.6 Ltr Rover lump, with a view to put it into my Cobra.

It has a 10:1 C/R, eye brows in the +20 thou pistons to accept the 12mm lift of the Real Steel Stump puller (hi Torque) cam.  The head is using standard size valves because its a road car and limited to 5000 RPM.  The head has had lots of work, double springs, geometry altered for high lift cam, adjustable push rods.  New Cloyes timing chain and gears.

This engine started life as a GEMS injected unit, but I have converted it to a 4 x barrel carb and distributor using a "Intermediate" front cover.

Crank has been reground to +10 thou and fully balanced, new big end shells, new crank bearings and a full set of ARP bolts.

Lightened flywheel, new clutch/cover etc, all balanced with the crank.

So far its taken about 11 months and £3k inc price of engine.  November is D-Day when I plan to swap motor and take to the rolling road.  Hoping for 280 BHP and 300ft/lbs of torque.

[peterw]

nice
How do you get on with the adjustable push rods ? looking at those for mine....

[Dixie]

nice
How do you get on with the adjustable push rods ? looking at those for mine....

Easy, but pricey.  Mine were £120 from Realsteel.  Because I had 1.5mm milled off the pedestal bases on the heads, my rods needed 2mm taking off them using a lathe.  To set the pre-load I simply adjusted them to give no end float, and then turned the nut another 5/6 of a turn.

Simples.

Mark

[Hairy Santa]

Looking good, cant wait to see it 

['The Gaffer']

Very nice Mark. Look forward to seeing and hearing it

Why swap from injection to a carb?

[Dixie]

Very nice Mark. Look forward to seeing and hearing it

Why swap from injection to a carb?

Hi Phil.

Nothing more than to keep the old school look, and help with the sound of the engine.  Carb induction sounds great.

M

[Moleman]

It does look nice mate. 

[Lucky Ed]

Very nice Mark. Look forward to seeing and hearing it

Why swap from injection to a carb?

Hi Phil.

Nothing more than to keep the old school look, and help with the sound of the engine.  Carb induction sounds great.

M

Great job there Dixie, looks like a great project I hope you get the results you're hoping for.

Nothing wrong with old school in my book, OK my car drinks fuel but it has soul, and the noise it makes is to die for

['Mendip Wurzel']

nice
How do you get on with the adjustable push rods ? looking at those for mine....

Easy, but pricey.  Mine were £120 from Realsteel.  Because I had 1.5mm milled off the pedestal bases on the heads, my rods needed 2mm taking off them using a lathe.  To set the pre-load I simply adjusted them to give no end float, and then turned the nut another 5/6 of a turn.

Mark

Mark ..... I have also been thinking about adjustable push rods and changing the cam followers as I have a noisy tapped on tick-over when the engine is warm. Presumably the push rods will fit a standard engine without milling?
Like you I seem to end up purchasing most of my stuff from Real Steel as they seem to be the cheapest when compared with good quality.
Thanks

[Dixie]

nice
How do you get on with the adjustable push rods ? looking at those for mine....

Easy, but pricey.  Mine were £120 from Realsteel.  Because I had 1.5mm milled off the pedestal bases on the heads, my rods needed 2mm taking off them using a lathe.  To set the pre-load I simply adjusted them to give no end float, and then turned the nut another 5/6 of a turn.

Mark ..... I have also been thinking about adjustable push rods and changing the cam followers as I have a noisy tapped on tick-over when the engine is warm. Presumably the push rods will fit a standard engine without milling?
Like you I seem to end up purchasing most of my stuff from Real Steel as they seem to be the cheapest when compared with good quality.
Thanks

Mark

Sadly Kev they are not a direct replacement.  The rods are much thicker than standard items, and need the guide holes in the head grinding out.  I think I took out at least 2mm (1mm each side) of material.  If you dont do this, they will wear rapidly.

['Mendip Wurzel']

nice
How do you get on with the adjustable push rods ? looking at those for mine....

Easy, but pricey.  Mine were £120 from Realsteel.  Because I had 1.5mm milled off the pedestal bases on the heads, my rods needed 2mm taking off them using a lathe.  To set the pre-load I simply adjusted them to give no end float, and then turned the nut another 5/6 of a turn.

Mark ..... I have also been thinking about adjustable push rods and changing the cam followers as I have a noisy tapped on tick-over when the engine is warm. Presumably the push rods will fit a standard engine without milling?
Like you I seem to end up purchasing most of my stuff from Real Steel as they seem to be the cheapest when compared with good quality.
Thanks

Mark

Sadly Kev they are not a direct replacement.  The rods are much thicker than standard items, and need the guide holes in the head grinding out.  I think I took out at least 2mm (1mm each side) of material.  If you dont do this, they will wear rapidly.

Mark.... O Well, I guess its back to packing the rockers for me.... thanks for the info though
Kevin

[Iancider]

I've commented before Dixie that yours was the best sounding Cobra at Combe  but this new engine is going to be awesome! 

[Dixie]

I've commented before Dixie that yours was the best sounding Cobra at Combe  but this new engine is going to be awesome! 

Thanks for that.