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Radiator advice

Started by nojjer, 10, June, 2016, 09:07:14 AM

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nojjer

Morning all, looking for some radiator advice, I removed the old rad and its was full of rusty looking water and it was leaking.
So I managed to find a rad for a reasonable price which shouldn't full apart after a few months.
New

Old


It's not quite the same set up as my old rad, new has 2 in/out lets, old had 3.

Any advice on how to plumb this?

nojjer

here is a very child like drawing of my current rad


heres a photo of the bottle and thermostat piping

CC Cyclone

Plumb the green (bottom hose of header tank) with a T into the blue (bottom hose from rad). Job done.

CC Cyclone

Hmm. Just noticed that you now have 2 pressure caps in the system and two high level air bleeds which could cause you problems.
Is the blue cap on the header a pressure cap or just a filling cap?

benchmark51

I have 2 pressure caps on mine as well. 1 is on the radiator, but is difficult to get at as it's under the nosecone. The other, on the header tank, is the one I use. All works ok though. The blue cap is a pressure cap that vents air to atmosphere I think as the water level is not near it.

nojjer

I guess that is a pressure cap?


nojjer

Benchmark do you have any photos of your set up?

benchmark51

#7
I haven't at the moment, but I have recently changed the engine from a Kent cross-flow to Pinto and also have a heater plumbed in. So quite a bit different to yours. Top of radiator to thermostat, bottom of radiator to pump, inlet manifold to top heater connection, bottom heater to pump also bottom of expansion tank to pump(using a 'Y' piece). Bleeder hose from thermostat to expansion tank. There is a pressure cap on the radiator, but way out of reach. A pressure cap on the expansion tank is where I fill it. This is the highest point of the system. I have no over heating problems and the heater works a treat. Your welcome to have a look and see.

SPAXIMUS

I would replace the radiator cap on the rad with a flat cap, no spring. Then plum the over flow into the header tank and keep the other connection.
The top one should act as a bleed the other will allow water to expand and contract.

nojjer


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