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Wheel Alignment

Started by foggy, 15, April, 2010, 08:09:31 PM

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foggy

Recently changed top ball joints,lower ball joints,track rod ends, anti roll bar bushes. Does any one know,should the front wheels on a Robin Hood S7, tow in  or tow out?  and by what angle? Tracking,I can get set up in a garage.  Any info would be appreciated. Don't have the orginal build book.

gingerpaul

A smidge of toe in. I'm running about 1.25 degrees of camber but haven't pushed it hard to find out if that's right. Seems predictable so far though.

Gary RH7

foggy, don't know if you will see this as you started this some time ago. I have a dolly based S7 and am going through the alignment as it is a bit dodgy at high speed. Did you get yours sorted? Also I have a Haynes manual with the settings but not sure if it is fit for the kit. Gary S7

'The Gaffer'

Quote from: Gary RH7 on 28, August, 2014, 12:25:38 PM
foggy, don't know if you will see this as you started this some time ago. I have a dolly based S7 and am going through the alignment as it is a bit dodgy at high speed. Did you get yours sorted? Also I have a Haynes manual with the settings but not sure if it is fit for the kit. Gary S7

I believe Foggy has sold his car. My recommendation would be to call Dave Gallop at Track Developments, there isn't much he doesn't know about kit car geometry and he has set up quite a few members cars. TEL: 07977 948883

Moleman

You can't go wrong paying Dave a visit.  8)

Camber Dave

Thanks for the recommendation Guys.

If you can do it yourself Gary, Gingerpauls's proposed settings are spot-on for touring, add more camber if you are on track with the car.

Dave

Gary RH7

Thanks guys and Dave. I am trying to set up the caster at the moment. Started at about -0.5 where the Haynes manual says +2. I think Robin Hood welded the sub-frame to the chassis at the wrong angle... it was one of their first. I have got to about +0.5 by putting a spacer on the top front wishbone pushing the top joint backwards but cant go further as the spring will be hitting the arm. Then I can have a go at the camber if I can find a flat spot in my garage. I might pop up and see you Dave if that's OK as I am only in Chippenham and a quick guide to see if I am doing the correct thing might help.

Camber Dave

Hi Gary

I use +3.5 as a minimum if adjustable. Also important to get them equal.
Also check that the arms are fitted on the correct side/right way up. I have found 3 Westfields with one or both upper arms fitted upside down

When you have run out of adjustment at the top see if you can adjust the Lower arm forward.
When adjustment fails a bespoke pair of wishbones is a quick fix and not that expensive when an infinite camber adjuster is designed in. (Outer balljoint uses two nuts tightened against a shoulder in an un-threaded tube to enable adjustment without even jacking the car up).

Give me a ring and come up. An inspection, coffee and advice is free.
If the car is not tested or taxed bring plenty of pictures.

Dave

Gary RH7

Hi Dave, Thanks for the response. Car is roadworthy but I am waiting for a new windscreen from GBSC so it might be a week or so till it gets back on the road. Also the shims I have put in for the caster has knocked the "Toe In" right out of true so it squeals at me even with the slightest turn.
Interesting that the Westfield were the wrong side. The Dolomite front suspension bracket is in question now. I will take some pictures and bring the Haynes manual up. Will call to arrange a time.
Cheers...Gary

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