I have been trying to understand the sierra lobo hubs and what goes with what, from what I have found there are a couple of spline number options as well as different bearing types, as a couple on here know I have found that the hubs do not slide on my splines smoothly and start to go tight with about an inch left. I am pretty sure this is the cause of the play in my wheel bearing. I have spotted a couple of bearing carriers and hubs on as Ed China would say 'an online internet auction site' and was going to see if they were any better, however I would rather know what they should be like rather spending money buying more bits.
Should they be free to slide or should they be slightly tight? I know the hub nut should be torqued up to FT, but the one with play was OMFG RFT.
Sorry mate, I haven't got a clue on that query!
No worries,
I have looked and looked on the net but there doesn't seem to be anything about it, just loads of people with bearing problems.
Quote from: damouk on 26, February, 2016, 07:47:39 PM
I know the hub nut should be torqued up to FT, but the one with play was OMFG RFT.
Even if I knew what this meant I doubt I could help! ???
QuoteI know the hub nut should be torqued up to FT, but the one with play was OMFG RFT.
It took me a while to get that one!
The splines should not be tapered so should slide freely but I am suspecting you might be pushing further than the normal operating range and colliding inside the joint. I would suggest you load the wishbones with the bushes still loose and no suspension and the shaft in place. You should be able then to lift and lower the whole assembly over its full operating range without binding - if it does stick within its normal range then you have a real rather than perceived problem. The Sierra driveshafts are handed left and right because they are different lengths - could that be a problem perhaps?
If you get stuck I am quite willing to pop up and take a look with you.
Regards
Ian
Good info there Ian, I don't have the chassis back yet so I'm just trying to sort the problems before I get there. My driveshaft are Suberra, Subaru inboard Sierra outer lobros, from memory there was a nice amount of free play in them when they were on the car so I don't think its that. I might bring one along to the club meet to see what everyone thinks
I have a sierra haynes manual if thats any use
It could be Dave yes, any info would be appreciated, are you going to the club meet next week?
Probably will be there, where are you based?
Quote from: Iancider on 26, February, 2016, 09:29:32 PM
QuoteI know the hub nut should be torqued up to FT, but the one with play was OMFG RFT.
It took me a while to get that one!
Regards
Ian
I still don't get it!!
Oh my f****** god really f****** tight. I tink ;D
Well done dave
Well it's no wonder I didn't get it, I have never heard such disgraceful language!!! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: benchmark51 on 26, February, 2016, 10:28:50 PM
Probably will be there, where are you based?
I'm up in Gloucester Dave, but will be at the club meet
Quote from: Facial Hair Optional on 27, February, 2016, 02:58:29 PM
Well it's no wonder I didn't get it, I have never heard such disgraceful language!!! ;D ;D ;D
I'm not so sure I can believe that one steve
I agree with Steve, How rude! ::) :-*
Quote from: damouk on 27, February, 2016, 04:09:19 PM
Quote from: benchmark51 on 26, February, 2016, 10:28:50 PM
Probably will be there, where are you based?
I'm up in Gloucester Dave, but will be at the club meet
Ok, I will bring it to the meet. :)
Quote from: damouk on 27, February, 2016, 04:10:57 PM
Quote from: Facial Hair Optional on 27, February, 2016, 02:58:29 PM
Well it's no wonder I didn't get it, I have never heard such disgraceful language!!! ;D ;D ;D
I'm not so sure I can believe that one steve
It's true mate, I used to be a monk didn't you know?
Quote from: Moleman on 27, February, 2016, 04:51:31 PM
I agree with Steve, How rude! ::) :-*
You're supposed to wait until the 29th to agree with me Col!!!! :P
:o
Is there something you want to tell us Steve?
... I thought you said you would never get married lol
Quote from: damouk on 28, February, 2016, 07:03:30 PM
:o
Is there something you want to tell us Steve?
... I thought you said you would never get married lol
Only cos no woman would put up with me Damo! Too set in my ways I fear :D
ha Don't I know that feeling..
I've got the push in type shafts on my car, but had a similar problem of running out of travel on the splines. I think this is what was causing my rear wishbones to fail as the fully compressed shaft was forcing the wishbones outboard on full bump. Having blamed Dino for breaking it, I fully rose jointed the back end allowing me to lengthen the 'bones' so the shafts were free to slide through the full travel of the suspension, and Dave Gallop put some bump stops on the top of the coilovers to limit the travel. As Iancider says, I would make sure you have free travel of your rear set up before you put your coilovers on.
Nice painting BTW
Ed
It is defiantly something I will be checking when I start putting the rear end back together, my concern is the tight hub splines, it doesn't seem right to me.
Quote from: damouk on 28, February, 2016, 08:10:52 PM
It is defiantly something I will be checking when I start putting the rear end back together, my concern is the tight hub splines, it doesn't seem right to me.
Mine are free for most of the travel, and then they start to go tight. As I recall they don't hit a solid stop.
That's Interesting, can you remember roughly how far away they are when it starts to get tight?
As you said in your OP, about the last inch of travel.
So it sounds like mine are ok then, thanks Ed. I will have to do some further investigation on my loose wheel bearing when I start getting it back together, maybe it just needed to be even tighter than it was.
I think the bearing nuts need to be 250lb/ft! You'll need a 3/4" drive socket, a scaffold tube and the car wedged against something solid to get them tight enough :o
Yea I've read 200 220 and 250 ft/lb, but they are all tight tight. I have borrowed a 3/4 37mm socket and bar, just don't have a scafold tube at the mo
We have a 6 Ft torque wrench in work if that helps? :)
QuoteYea I've read 200 220 and 250 ft/lb, but they are all tight tight. I have borrowed a 3/4 37mm socket and bar, just don't have a scafold tube at the mo
And remember they are likely to be Right and Left Hand threads!
Six foot Torque Wrench - man-toys! :o 8) :P
Quote from: Moleman on 29, February, 2016, 09:39:29 PM
We have a 6 Ft torque wrench in work if that helps? :)
Wow, I think that will do it, I won't be needing it for a few weeks :-[
No problem mate. :)
Ok so the next part of my Lobro saga is that I would like to replace the standard bolts that hold it to the hub with ones having a narrow and/or lower head profile, I am having problems finding anything different from what I have that are rated at 12.9..
The design of the suspension means the push rods are very close to the heads of the bolts.. so close they have previously gouged the pushrods.
Would grinding a bit off the tops of the bolt heads lose too much strength? Whenever I've seen a sheared bolt it is usually either where the the thread joins the shank or where the shank joins the head, never part way up the head so I'd have thought a couple of mm of the head should be okay?
I agree with you there, I would Imagine the very top part of the head would not alter the strength much or at all. I was hoping to get something like this:
(http://cliff.hostkansas.com//pffimages3/23infamousfourbolts.jpg)
but haven't managed to find any strong enough. The guy I spoke to in my local fastener emporium said he had 12.9 in hex but it was the same head diameter and length as the original ones, he had 8.8 shallow head ones or surprisingly 10.9 in dome heads.