Looking at a 1500 spitfire today, anyone have any history with them? I'm also on the hunt for a car transport trailer to get it home.
I'm hoping to get a tax exempt car but I know that the cut off is 1973 is this a rolling date that? When did licences plates change from silver on black?
Cheers for any help.
I believe the 1500 Spitfire didn't come out until late 1974 so it will not be tax exempt. You'll be looking at a Mk4 or earlier. I think the car only weight around 800kg so it should go on most trailers.
Is this going to be a winter project? If so, I hope you'll post progress on this site. ;)
It's listed as a a 1973 1500 with 2 engines and in pieces. So I need to go and have a good look at what's amiss. With any luck it'll be a MkIV with a 1500 engine, I take it the tax goes on the chassis not the engine?
What do I need to get it registered back on the road, getting a bit ahead of myself I know. Is there any way to move the engine around without a crane?
I loved the Spitfire, had one when I was living in California. Made more money from people crashing into me in their big 4x4's because I was so invisibly low than it cost me. Eventually put a big union jack flag on a tall antenna in the end while the car was still drivable :D
Really enjoyed driving that car, the weather helped a lot though. Only had one problem, I used to get big electric shocks from the gear lever when I selected overdrive, this was found to be a loose wire from the gearchange solenoid causing back emf :o
Hope you fine a good one.
Gone and bought the darned thing, it was as I suspected an April 1973 Mk4 with a 1500 engine or two.
Nice solid chassis, just need a little bit of love and money. Hope to get it back home soon. :)
(http://s10.postimage.org/thkgbhup1/my_1st_spitfire.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/thkgbhup1/)
Need to get a mig welder now but I'll wait till I get to exeter kit show.
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 17, September, 2012, 09:48:14 PM
Gone and bought the darned thing.
Nice one! Look forward to watching progress on here.
Had one many moons ago with a Triumph straight-6 1600 in. Bet I couldn't get in it now though :(
Lookinh forward to the reports :D
John
Got it back in my garage, with the extra engine 7 headlights, 6 alternators, 4 seat frames, 2 new sills new brake pads and discs and lots of other bits I still need to identify. Also found out a good welder who works a few garages down from me, bonus as I didn't want to splash out on a welder. :D
If anyone wants the lights please make me an offer as I plan on upgrading to halogens anyway.
On the lookout for rear brake drums an inner left hand wing, interior refurb kit and either a parts cleaner or electrostatic cleaner big enough for the carbs to fit in. A cheap engine crane would be handy as well.
Anyone know of a good engine restorer?
(http://s9.postimage.org/wszgiw04b/Triumph.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wszgiw04b/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/qm2q35ehl/Triumph1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qm2q35ehl/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/51xfrh4sv/Triumph2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/51xfrh4sv/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/5uqntclyb/Triumph3headlight.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5uqntclyb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/gd0ihfhs7/Triumph4headlight.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gd0ihfhs7/)
Looks like just a couple of hours work to do :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Is it fairly solid underneath? Body work don't look to bad..
Chassis works all done with new floor and sills, I need the door bottoms replaced and a l/h inner front wing and the body will be tidy.
Looks pretty solid, should keep you occupied over the winter :)
A 2 litre Vitesse engine would make it shift or is it problematic using a 6-cyclinder engine in a Spitfire???......they did sound nice though. ;D::)
I'll keep the 1500 for now as I'd have to change the bonnet as the gt6 has the 2 litre engine, same chassis with a bonnet bulge, it might have the meatier vitesse running gear as well. I worked out the power to weight values the other day to around 95bhp per ton and my Peugeot to around 45bhp per ton and that still shifts. :P
Yep, I know what you mean about the bonnet bulge! My old Spitfire had been 'modified' with the zealous use of a hammer to make the Vitesse engine fit :D (Not by me I might add!)
maybe when I've finished this one I'll trade up to a GT6 but I think getting used to an old fashioned rear drive car will be enough.
Found a local classic restorer who's coming out to eyeball the job and give me a price and also met a classic car dealer who looked impressed with the car. :D
Anyone know of a good chrome plater near chippenham, I'd like to keep the work local if possible. Found one in Yate but pretty sure there would be one closer.
Westinghouse did years ago but not sure if they still do or even if they are still doing... I will ask my mate in Bristol. What parts are you looking at getting done?
try these people
http://www.eicgroup.co.uk/index.php/Page/Contact (http://www.eicgroup.co.uk/index.php/Page/Contact)
Cheers for the contact details, I'd like the trim strips chroming as they are currently black, the bumpers and a few other trim bits.
I have found a great company in Full pints for my wheels, http://tpcs-magnesium-refurbs.co.uk/contact-us.php (http://tpcs-magnesium-refurbs.co.uk/contact-us.php) will using Steve when I the time comes, I haven't decided whether or not to get the rocker cover done or buy a new one. :P
Just twiged!! Its you who emailed on my tpcs address asking about Triumph wheels and chrome!!! Its a small old world ;D
Working on the front brakes today, high temp painted the brake calipers and am baking them off now, twin SU carbs are heading for the dishwasher and the new brake disk is fitted front right.
(http://s11.postimage.org/6nqy7jkkv/Freshly_painted_with_high_temp_paint_Front_Right_upright.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6nqy7jkkv/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/d989l8d05/Spitfire_front_brake_discs.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d989l8d05/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/6dnum0glz/1500_Spitfire_engine.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6dnum0glz/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/b28webc47/New_tan_seat.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b28webc47/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/yui7pue53/Sptfire_IV_badge.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yui7pue53/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/dyvxelhxz/Twin_K_N_air_filters_require_work.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dyvxelhxz/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/j03bfypef/Twin_SU_carbs.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j03bfypef/)
I remember when we baked my mates head (motorbike) in his mum's oven! It stunk the place out. This was followed by a pot of chain-lube on the hob ;D
So carb's in the dish-washer? Look forward to seeing them. I'm thinking about getting a soda blaster for work. But if your carbs come out ok perhaps a second-hand dish-washer could do the trick ;)
The smell of cooking calipers isn't very nice and quite smoky, the wife wasn't very impressed, saying why didn't you tell me it was going to smell so bad? I answered that I didn't know because I'd not done it before, and most importantly why would I tell her if I did know, she would have said no! ::)
Who needs a garage when you've got a kitchen ;)
Nice pics.
(http://s7.postimage.org/wmlkzsro7/carbureter_still_warm_from_the_dishwasher.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wmlkzsro7/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/xfy6sexp3/freshly_baked_and_still_hot_from_the_oven_calipe.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xfy6sexp3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/z5bve82s7/Twin_SU_downdraught_carbs.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z5bve82s7/)
Calipers all baked off now, not very glossy but they won't be seen behind the wheels, the carbs are all clean now, I just need to work out how they work! I have K&N filters but the mounting plates are broken so will have to make some replacements up.
Stripped the carbs and cleaned them up, they were very grotty, and 1 pot was full of water, I need to get some gaskets and meybe some new return springs but I'll give them all a good clean up and lube and see if they free up.
I now have new bits for the calipers and fitted them, including brake pad fitting kit and bleed nipples from Moss europe.
(http://s10.postimage.org/5q8q3kbn9/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5q8q3kbn9/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/a0ndz5gqd/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a0ndz5gqd/)
I think I would have water in my works if I had been put in a dishwasher.. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Rerfitted the boot, painted the exhaust manifoold with black heat paint, cleaned up one of the air filters and started straightening out the panel joints only to find that the O/S rear quarter panel bottom is rotten and requires more welding work.
(http://s12.postimage.org/ur9lbpx55/Exhaust_manifold_high_temp_painted.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ur9lbpx55/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/u893g6v49/K_N_air_filter_cleaned_up_still_needing_repair.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/u893g6v49/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/yinrbs07d/More_rot_to_repair.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yinrbs07d/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/t9sqdwhs9/New_area_of_rot_found.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t9sqdwhs9/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/aiqt3qn7t/triumph_carmine_red.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aiqt3qn7t/)
Got some more bits to fit to the spit' rear brake drums and bits and peices and front brake hoses, enough to keep me busy over the weekend, my trip to Malvern classic show on Sunday saw me return with black and silver number plates and a few new tools.
Ground back the rusted area to expose the fillered area on the right hand quarter panel, fitted the new bits on the right hand rear brake drums, cleaned up the second engine a bit and gave it to Bulldogbri to see if he can make use of it, managed to turn it with a spanner which is a bonus as when I picked it up it looked seized up, hopefully with a good clean up and a lick of paint it'll be a good runner.
With Bri's help we managed to loosed off the old brake line from bracket and loosened off the adjuster so that the new brake drums will fit, I'll try that tomorrow, the joys of new components.
In the effort of removing the drum retaining screws they are pretty well mullered so I'll be after a new set of them new.
I'm off to the Exeter kit car show on Sunday so I'll wait to see what bits I can pick up there.
(http://s10.postimage.org/b7684xdsl/New_area_of_rot_found.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b7684xdsl/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/qxrayjx1x/groundback_right_hand_rear_wheelarch.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qxrayjx1x/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/tkbvclul1/Holed_bare_metal_right_hand_quarter_panel.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tkbvclul1/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/wwa65wmc5/Right_rear_drum_all_put_back_together.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wwa65wmc5/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/8ttcb15p1/spit_dash.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Nice teamwork guys :)
Spent the morning fitting the new brake hose and found it bit shorter than the original, I dug out the copper lines and couldn't find my pipe bender. Tried out some POR15 on the master brake cylinder shelf.
Painted the front brake pipe brackets.
Lost my rag with trying to put the new brake drum over the new brake shoes, couldn't get them on and the retaining springs came off, I took it all apart and moved the adjuster slots and it helped a bit but not enough so I left it untill I have more time, ordered some drum retaining screw and front brake brackets in stainless steel from http://www.canleyclassics.com (http://www.canleyclassics.com)
I know the feeling mate.. Had the same problem with the drums on my old Caddy and also the wifes Sei... Make sure the pistons are pushed in as far as they can go on the cylinder. Mind you looking at the phot they do look like they are well in... Try again another day and the drum may just slide on nicely...
Thanks full pint it's nice to know I not a total spaz when it comes to doing bits to the car. No such thing as a 5 minute job. I'll get those wheels to you in November, giving them a closer look the are pretty scabby on the inside, would you like me to give them a wire brush before you get them or would that add to your work? I've decided on gloss black as I'll be putting chrome finishing rims on them.
A little wire brushing would be 8).. My blaster should remove what's left albeit leaving a pitted surface behind but there's not much one can do about that..Plus it's not seen when on the car. When I see them up front I will be able to let you know how they will come out. Gloss black with chrome rims will look awesome.. :P
Looks like another old Triumph winter project. Just picked up this one today. Needs some tidying up; new door skin(s), front wing (lower section of bonnet), new hood. Has been sitting in a garage for a couple of years.
(http://s16.postimage.org/3q1pe1hyp/Spitfire.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3q1pe1hyp/)
(Don't worry, this is no longer a disabled space :D)
Looks better than mine, I'm sure it'll be hiding some nice rotten sections and filler in the most unexpected of places. Sills, A posts, wheel arches battery bay, peddle box, floor, rear inner wheelarch. Hope the floor on yours is solid. The sills and floor have been done on mine and the chassis is solid, it still needs some work on the front left inner wheel arch rear right quarterpanel and wheel arch a plate on the new left hand sill and the right hand headlight surround. Oh and the engine and gearbox needs sorting and all putting back together after replacing the missing bits and repairing the broken bits. It's a long list but it wouldn't be any fun if it was all easy would it! ::)
Nice project Rob, but how the heck are you going to fit in there, you're about the same height as me?? :)
Quote from: YellaBelly on 01, November, 2012, 06:37:45 PM
Nice project Rob, but how the heck are you going to fit in there, you're about the same height as me?? :)
I guess thats why its a rag top, roof off job..
It does look tidy in the pic..
Quote from: YellaBelly on 01, November, 2012, 06:37:45 PM
Nice project Rob, but how the heck are you going to fit in there, you're about the same height as me?? :)
Reminds me of Ed China on Wheeler Dealers, with his head stuck out above the screen of a Spit with goggles on - funny as .... ;D ;D ;D
You read my mind Ed! :D :D :D :D
Quote from: Lucky Ed on 01, November, 2012, 09:48:27 PM
Quote from: YellaBelly on 01, November, 2012, 06:37:45 PM
Nice project Rob, but how the heck are you going to fit in there, you're about the same height as me?? :)
Reminds me of Ed China on Wheeler Dealers, with his head stuck out above the screen of a Spit with goggles on - funny as .... ;D ;D ;D
Funnily enough I was watching that episode on YouTube last night. I do fit, just, although its fair to say I'm looking through the upper part of the windscreen! Perhaps the floor is rotten through and sagging!
Quote from: fullpint on 01, November, 2012, 07:40:55 PM
It does look tidy in the pic..
Its all to do with the light. ;) It is a little tatty but with some grafting should hopefully be looking respectable for the Spring. Itching to get started. Its still sitting outside on the trailer. My garage is on a narrow lane behind the houses so will be a little 'challenging' getting it around there and the neighbours have all done a Lord Lucan on me.
Nice project Rob 8)
:PTried out Por15 rust proof undercoat and it comes out nice and smooth, managed to get the rear brake drum on at last, fitted the front right brake line bracket and ran the copper lines around the front end up to the master cylinder. Painted the master cylinder bracket with Por15 after stripping down the thick rust.
Picked up a few more tools at Exeter kit show. The west field drift demo was good and there was some really nice cars there including cobras, gt40 and Porsche speedsters.
(http://s13.postimage.org/bemndketf/017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bemndketf/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/605cp11yh/018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/605cp11yh/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/l02aqm889/019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l02aqm889/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/av3n11pnt/020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/av3n11pnt/)
POR15 is great stuff, on my Marlin it has stood up better to stone chips than 2 layers of powder coating
My pictures from Exeter kit car show, Saturday 27th Oct '12. Finished painting the brake master cylinder bracket with POR15 cleaned up the clutch master cylinder bracket and ordered the engine gaskets and copper rear brake lines. Any idea how the flixible lines are supposed to reach the bracket without stretching the rubber pipe? I know it's at it's full extension being in the air but it seems to be about half inch too short. :o once the copper line is attached I can spin the car around and start on the other side. I tried the sront steering to check the brake lone clearance and was amazed at the nearly 90 degree angle the front wheels get to. Krazyken Did you leave the POR15 as it is or over paint it?
(http://s8.postimage.org/9ltw745wh/Buckfastleigh_Oct_12_011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9ltw745wh/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/w0g612y1t/Buckfastleigh_Oct_12_012.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w0g612y1t/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/b68ewzt29/Buckfastleigh_Oct_12_013.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b68ewzt29/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/tr18ht3vl/Buckfastleigh_Oct_12_014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tr18ht3vl/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/yl7yjdja9/Buckfastleigh_Oct_12_015.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yl7yjdja9/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/88porw6ht/Buckfastleigh_Oct_12_016.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/88porw6ht/)
Looks like its coming along nicely mate. Should ready for a run on Boxing Day??? ;D
cleaned up the clutch master cylinder bracket and have POR15 primed it, I have now realised that the to brackets I have for the master cylinder brackets are slighlty different from each other, the brake bracket has a small fillet across the top covering the top retaining nut.
Have recieved the decocking engine gasket set (don't ask me what the differnce is to a normal set). Rear copper brake lines to cylinder pipes, just need to fit them now all from Canleys classics. I dug out the old brake master cylinder and rods and cleaned them up, quite rusty around the lid and under the lid rubber seal. Seals are still pretty good apart from the rod rubber seal which has split, a service set is only £3.75 and comes with the lid seal as well, so that's something else to add to the shopping list. I need to find the right bolts that clamp the bracket down to the bulkhead but I can't find any parts diagram that shows them, the joys of trying to put together somthing that someone else has stripped and not labeled. In the plastic bag of bits I four a rod with a spring but my diagram didn't show what it was, I tested it in the master cylinder and it all looked right, it is a very snug fit, so god only knows how the previous owner got it apart :o
I'll take the wifes steam cleaner up to the garage tomorrow and give the engine a good clean before stripping it.
Took off the head and cleaned up and painted bright red along with the oil cap and top of the water pump. Took off the rocker cover, exhaust bolts, inlet bolts and distributor. are released all but on head retaining bolts as I couldn't get a good purchase on one of the centre bolts as the rocker cover bolt is in the way, there is a small nut at the bottom of the bolt that is slightly narrowing the point where my socket need to be.
After fitting the rear brake pipes between the drum and the flexible hose I noticed that the flexible hose is stretched to it's limit and is trying to bend 90degrees, I'll look for a 90 bend adaptor now.
Painted the front anti roll bar, front uprights, front springs and battery tray with the remains of my little tin of POR15.
Can anyone help, I require a new brake master cylinder aluminum cap as the previous owner has damaged the one I have. I have looked at all the usual places and they no longer supply them only the full cylinder at £60. I have a single system.
I'm also having trouble finding the brake pipe fitting I require. I'm looking for a male to female 3/8 screw fitting with at least 45 degree bend for the rear brake hose.
Managed to order a master cylinder brake fluid aluminum cap from the spitfire graveyard, very helpful and ordered a master cylinder repair kit from canleys classics. I still can't find the brake line bend I'm looking for though.
Had a good few hours on the car today, managed to get the head, distributor, water pump, oil filter and fuel pump off the block, gave the rocker cover and water pump cover another coat of paint, not very happy with the colour though it's a bit too orangey red, I might get them powder coated along with the wheels.
Parts came from canleys today so now I can rebuild the brake and clutch master cylinders and put a return spring on the brake bedal.(http://s18.postimage.org/t8bo860b9/brake_line_bracket_front.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t8bo860b9/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/l5dhwufpx/cylinder_head_exhaust_header.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l5dhwufpx/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/7cz317oyd/cylinder_head_valves.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7cz317oyd/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/5z7g5wpp1/distributor.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5z7g5wpp1/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/gnb74qzo5/Freshly_painted_rocker_cover.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gnb74qzo5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/jb58sui39/fuel_pump.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jb58sui39/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/s8pyq7aj9/gearbox_bell_housing.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s8pyq7aj9/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/6nkw2ldsl/piston_tops_in_block.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6nkw2ldsl/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ra9lnwx79/rocker_gear.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ra9lnwx79/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/5qj27gro5/valve_rocker.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5qj27gro5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/mgufwsq39/water_pump_block_side.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mgufwsq39/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ywr5qjjf9/water_pump.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ywr5qjjf9/)
Looks like you have a few jobs on the go there mate... Best part is putting all those clean parts back together.. Should look good once its done..
I found some cutting paste and a drip tray from my local motor factors on Bumpers Farm in Chippenham.
Hope to take up hairy santas offer of help with my valve strip as the valve removal tool costs around £50 quid and I hope to only need it once.
I know you've been using POR15 on some components but what paint are you using for the engine block? What is the paint in the photos above?
The spray paint is a mixture of high temp paint and ceramic engine paint, I got one from halfords and the other from my local motor supplier.
My thanks to Hairysanta for helping me out with my valve springs and the loan if some tools so that I can put it all back together again. You own tha garage of my dreams including the car :P
Got my replacement alloy brake master cylinder cap from spitfire graveyard, (0114 3272521) bit grubby but it was only a fiver.
Sorry for the late reply. I applied 2 coats of POR15 and was happy with the finish so left it as it was. I found that you can just brush it on, it finds its own smooth level and acts like a plastic costing resistant to further stone chips.
Good Stuff! ;D
(http://s16.postimage.org/jfig65jgh/17_nov_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jfig65jgh/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/4m8dz5135/cylinder_head_exhaust_header.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4m8dz5135/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/xr6josr0h/cylinder_head_valves.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xr6josr0h/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/pqs90ba2p/Dirty_valves.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pqs90ba2p/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/yn31490ox/piston_tops_in_block.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yn31490ox/)
Started to clean the gaskets off the head, and block using an old chisel and brass brush in my drill. coming up alright but I get some black brush on paint for the block just to brighten things up a bit.
Black bush on paint will be fine for the block.. Look forward to seeing those valves and head all polished up ;)
As the weather was so crap today I spent most of the morning lapping the valves and changing the seals on the brake and clutch master cylinders. When I tried to take the brake master cylinder apart the spring and rod piston was stuck in the cylinder housing so I put the air line on the brake line point and the screw on lid fired off with huge force straight into my guts. I did manage to get the piston out eventually and replace the seals. it's all back together now and just awaiting the screws to fix the brackets down to the bulkhead.
I lapped the valves with the lapping tool, but wasn't sure how far to take them, so have been watching utube for pointers, I will go back and look them over tomorrow.
I sprayed the head with heat resistant paint and cleaned up and painted one of the horns. More to keep the rust off it than anything else as I'm not sure I'll fit it at the moment.
With the bad weather today I have noticed the garage has a few leaks and I found a small puddle in the middle of the car so will have to keep an eye on that.
The master cylinder cap that I ordered from the spitfire graveyard proved to be no better than the one I had and athough it has a hole on the outside it doesn't penetrate all the way through.
I am awaiting an order from Canleys with braided stainless brake lines for the rear to fix my short hose length and a few gaskets.
I found the pistons and the valves are badly coked up and are hard to clean up. ::)
Hi Paul
looks like your up to your elbows in it, make sure you have a complete circle when you lap the valves and get rid of all traces of grinding paste (important)
If you want to test the valves for seating/sealing once you put it back together put very thin oil in the chambers and leave over night
I have resolved my rear brake line problem by buying stainless steel braided lines which are about 2" longer than the rubber lines I had, I think they must be for the older narrower track spitfire.
I now have the right hand side brakes all sorted ready to spin the car around and start on the left side.
I have lapped the valves in till they have a nice bright line all the way around, I cleaned the block with carb cleaned and left a little in the cylinder pot to see how long it would stay, (not as long as I would have liked, the seem to be leaking through the inlet valves)
(http://s13.postimage.org/cuhcrglgz/Freshly_lapped_in_inlet_valve.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cuhcrglgz/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/9dfaohmer/Rear_braided_Stainless_brake_line.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9dfaohmer/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/j0isy7feb/Stainless_flexible_to_copper_rear_brake_line.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j0isy7feb/)
;D
Just weighing up the best bit of bling for the wife to buy me for christmas, rocker cover it might be. The old one looks alright now that it's painted up though. Or maybe an electronic ignition.
As Pete says, get a good even circle of grey on the valve seats when lapping them. A better way to check for a real good seal is to put a few teaspoons of fuel in there. That will show up any leaks, if it doesn't drain away then you have the best seal you can get ;)
(http://s16.postimage.org/bjwxhqjgx/cylinder_head_all_cleaned_up_with_gaskets_on_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bjwxhqjgx/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6f0rx8cup/fanbelt_pulley_freshly_painted.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6f0rx8cup/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/kzhus27td/Painted_engine_block.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kzhus27td/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/52j2vcff5/Painted_water_pump.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/52j2vcff5/)
Had a busy few hours today, polished up the cylinder head and the valve tops, hammerited the water pump housing, fan pulley and engine block, finished off the right hand side brakes fixed down the master cylinder brackets to the firewall and turned the car around ready to start on the passenger side brakes. :P
your gonna need sunglasses for when you look in your engine bay
your def getting there
Coming on well. You're miles ahead of me!
spent this afternoon putting the valve springs back in, managed to put the springs back on valve stems and only trapped my thumb once in the clamp ??? Fitted the water pump with new gaskets and managed to shear one of the bolts so have ordered a replacement along with a carb heat shield stainless water return pipe and a regular 82c thermostat as mine was absent from canleys classics. I then fitted the themostat housing to the top of the water pump and the pulley wheel to the pump and by the time all that was done it was dark and time for tea.
(http://s14.postimage.org/tyvcldmvx/inlet_manifold.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tyvcldmvx/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6lxb2v6sd/Rebuilt_cylinder_head_with_water_pump.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6lxb2v6sd/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/saw76q90d/thermostat_housing.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/saw76q90d/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/3x2icu1b1/valves_and_springs.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3x2icu1b1/)
Rather you than me mate. Working in a garage in sub-zero temp can't be much fun...
Coming along good tho..
I work outside all day everyday, I'm used to it and do have a space heater running, just to take the edge off. :P
I'm waiting for a few bits from canleys so that I can put the rest of the cylinder head back together, I sheared a pump housing bolt putting it back together and also needed a thermostat, I ordered a standard 82c but after looking on forums the higher temp 88c is the better one to go for as it keeps the engine a little warmer. Just so long as it all works I'll be happy. Getting a replacement water return pipe in stainless as the old one was rustier than it looked and ate itself during removal.
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 12, December, 2012, 09:11:22 AM
Getting a replacement water return pipe in stainless as the old one was rustier than it looked and ate itself during removal.
Yep, same here. Original fell apart. Stainless replacement on order.
When I first saw the water return pipe it looked good and I wasn't going to bother replacing it until I removed it and found the layers of paint were keeping the rust together.
I have taken the carbs apart now and am polishing the ports andcleaning up the rusty bits, just hope I can put it all back together again, also fitted the inlets and manifold but am missing a retaining bolt, hope to find it on my next trip to the garage. I've ordered a heat shield so will have to wait and see how it goes on.
Got my shiny new heat shield and thermostat today, for £10 the heat shield looks great, the water return pipe is on back order so who knows when that'll turn up. Really glad I didn't go for the stainless steel heat shield lots of reviews of them retaining heat instead of dispersing it and they were more expensive. :P
Don't like it when a supplier tells you 'It's on back-order sir'... Lets hope you get it before the X-Mas shut-down mate..
As long as I get it I'm in no rush for it and it was only £15 delivered.
(http://s10.postimage.org/uukhqi99h/spit_heat_shield_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uukhqi99h/)
workedon a TVR Chimera this week as he had chipped the paintwork, I was really happy with the repair, I was a bit worried working on fibreglass but my usual technique of rubbing the area smooth and priming and painting worked great. As usual I took pictures of before but always seem to forget the after pictures, when the customer started the old V8 up it sounded superb. One day I'll get around to owning and V8 monster.
Saw a really nice body kit for the Spitfire chassis if the bodywork doesn't come up to standard it's a definite alternative.
Wish I'd taken a closer look at it when I was down at Exeter, it was on the Tribute stand and I thought they used MX5 chassis. ::)
(http://s17.postimage.org/6qriitecb/tribute_a352.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6qriitecb/)
In all honesty, I think the Spitfire body shape wins hands down.
Just an option if the body on mine doesn't work out.
I'm getting a mechanic friend to remove the water pump retaining bolt from the head as although I could get mole grip on it, it was just chewing the bolt up.
I started dtripping one of the carbs and found I need all the seals and a few little bits and bobs as there are bits missing.
I recieved the water return pipe today and it looks great until uder a bright light I happened to notice a small fracture along the top of the bend ???
I have sent an email to canleys and will probably have to wait till after christmas for a reply.
(http://s12.postimage.org/gt20mdubd/water_return_pipe_stainless_steel_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gt20mdubd/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/ow4sbg4ah/water_return_pipe_stainless_steel_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ow4sbg4ah/)
I got a replacement water return pipe from canleys and sent the other one back, unfortunatly this pipe has the same fault and after contacting Canleys the rest of the stock is the same. So the said that they would test one of theirs and if it's okay I 'll keep the one I have and send it back if it's not.
Out with my family in Bradford on Avon today and passed hairysanta and full pint pulled in on the side of the road, :'( sorry I couldn't stop and help but I didn't have any tools with me and you'd stopped in an ackward place. Pretty sure if you two can't fix the problem there's little hope for the rest of us. Nice to see your cars out on the road though ;D
What car were you in? I saw a Robin coming towards us not long after leaving B-o-A towards Bath..
Cheeky git, I was in the shiny blue pug 3008, I waved at Pete and as I went past. Some day I'll get out in my spitfire.
Hope you sorted out the problem ok. I heard something far too noisy for civilised cars drive off as I was down by the river. :P
The sheared water pump bolt has now been removed from the cylinder head, found that the bolt was topping out and pinched which caused the bolt to shear, then found that the 3 water pump retaining bolts are all different :o So I ordered the 3 different bolts from canleys only to have them delivered all in the same labeled bag so I still don't know which one is which >:(, also bought new temp sensors and gaskets to fit the heat shield. ;)
(http://s7.postimage.org/57vfqc72v/008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/57vfqc72v/)
Pop a depth gauge (or just a thin screw driver) into the threaded holes to measure the depth of each. Do this with the housing just held in place and measure from the housing down thru into the thread. ;)
cheers for that tip, I know which bolts which in relation to the serial number and the sixe of the bolt and where it goes on the engine.
I feel the need to scream, my pug 3008 has blown a DRL and I went to halfords to pick up a new one, only they don't supply them, came home to look on google, struggled but found a site that could supply LED replacement. Peugeot forum says that PUK charge £38per bulb which I can verify and they have to order them in. They also have to remove the headlight to replace the bleeding things.
I got the new bulbs through which look great and went out to replace the bulb, after a hour of struggling with the bulb holder, contorting my arm working back to front and blind, having to use a Torx40 tool as it's the only way to release the bulb >:( I finally got one out, the bulb sits in a little holder but the bulb has 2 long pins that slot into the holder and the LED I got were standard bayonet fitting. They company I got the LED's from don't supply the bulbs I need and don't think that they will be getting any soon.
Who's silly idea was it to make a consumable item into a £38 per bulb super rare almost impossible to get at item, which is also an MOT failure item? :'(
sounds just like PUGS
had one in for brake faults 30years ago - bits were so expensive and hard to get the car got scraped in the end
hope your having more luck with the other toy
Managed to find an LED replacement 2 for £5 so wasn't too worried if they didn't fit.
Had to butcher the bulb holder but it worked :P, tried to get the other one out, got the torx40 bit and unlocked it but it still wouldn't drop out! even getting some grips on it wouldn't shift it, after fighting for half hour until my hand turned red I gave up and will just have to live with an odd pair, did save me £38 quid though.
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 24, January, 2013, 02:07:13 PM
Managed to find an LED replacement 2 for £5 so wasn't too worried if they didn't fit.
Had to butcher the bulb holder but it worked :P, tried to get the other one out, got the torx40 bit and unlocked it but it still wouldn't drop out! even getting some grips on it wouldn't shift it, after fighting for half hour until my hand turned red I gave up and will just have to live with an odd pair, did save me £38 quid though.
Result, its nice to keep a few Quid in your pocket ;)
Got the rocker cover extension fasteners from canleys so will have to find time to fit them. ::)
tried to fit the rocker cover extension fastners but the sit too high now and don't clamp the rocker cover down tight ??? I have ordered a few odds and sods from Moss but have been waiting 2 weeks already. Seem to have a problem fitting the fuel pump to the engine, the crusty old one I ttok off the engine had a thick fibrous spacer which I can't seem to source now! I have started to fit the rear brake drum and after cleaning the carbs am attempting to make them work again.
Heh, you're back!
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 05, March, 2013, 12:17:26 PM
tried to fit the rocker cover extension fastners but the sit too high now and don't clamp the rocker cover down tight ???
I have two posts out the top of the cylinder head which are just about the same height as the rocker cover. There is a special nut that just fit through the hole in the rocker cover and screws on to each post.
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 05, March, 2013, 12:17:26 PM
I have started to fit the rear brake drum and after cleaning the carbs am attempting to make them work again.
I hope it goes more smoothly than your left-hand side rear brake. I'm sure you know what to do now though. ;) I will be starting on the rear brakes on my Spit soon so I'll know who to ask when it all goes Pete Tong. :D
The original fitting for the cylinder head was the two threaded bolts that just clear the cover, with a nut that was bending the rocker cover so that they would fit on, I wasn't happy with this so ordered the extension fastners but the sit too proud and don't tighten down the rocker cover. Have chased up my moss order and found they had carb ferrules on back order but didn't feel the need to tell me about it, so I'm getting the rest of the order sent through.
I have fitted the water return pipe today, the front Nearside brake line is fitted and the carbs and the heatshield is all back on the engine.
(http://s21.postimg.org/48ka46g03/Carb_heat_shield_fitted.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/48ka46g03/)
(http://s21.postimg.org/5imowyz5v/Carbs_refitted_to_block.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5imowyz5v/)
(http://s21.postimg.org/xy22a9ojn/Front_left_brake_disc.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xy22a9ojn/)
(http://s21.postimg.org/kc5xvgwar/Spit_engine.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/kc5xvgwar/)
(http://s21.postimg.org/y8e67csjn/Water_return_pipe_fitted_to_engine.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/y8e67csjn/)
Had a late cancellation this morning so I got to spend a few hours with the Spit. Fitted the grease cap and split pin to the front and fitted the wheel, moved to the back drum and found that there is no brake pipe bracket for the flexible hose to the copper at the back of the brake drum rear plate. I have a loose bracket but need to find a way of fitting it, any ideas guys? ???
The front flexible hose just touches the tyre on full left lock and I don't see any way to change the fact, can't see me driving around on full lock too often though as the turning circle is super tight. :P
I need to get a new jubilee clip for the water return pipe as the original is solid. >:(
Have now gotten some jubilee clips for the hoses, heat shrink and electrical connectors. Also picked up a brake adjuster all from the Shepton Mallet car show.
I'd put some pictures of the show on bit the puter won't let me. Keeps telling me the file limit is exceeded whatever the size of the picture >:(
Managed to put the rear drum brake back together but now can't get the drum itself on over the pads, remember having the same trouble on the other side.
I still can't upload any photo's at the moment, don't know why the system won't let me. >:(
You'll need to let off the handbrake adjuster loads before new shoes will fit in the drum. ;)
8)
I don't seem to be able to move the adjuster at all. I might have to change it.
I bought a pair or air filters for the spit to replace the broken K&N's but they are too small so I will have to think of something else. £10 to anyone who wants them, brand new in box classic gold GFE1063
Must admit, I'm watching yours and Rob's refurb with interest, might get some pointers for the Spridget ;)
With a little help from my friend I managed to get the seized brake adjuster off the back wheel. Even in the bench it didn't want to move, so have ordered an new one from Canleys along with a few other bits and pieces.
Heat is your friend 8)
Did you try heat (lots of it)? I've managed to free stuff I thought was on there forever by giving it a good dousing of heat.
The thing to remember is:
Similar metals - i.e. steel on steel: heat
Dissimilar metals - i.e. steel on alloy heat then quick cooling by quenching in water (just don't get it over hot incase the alloy melts! :o )
Works for me pretty much every time ;)
(http://s18.postimg.org/qyu1abo91/iphone_017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s18.postimg.org/sp8gy2ged/iphone_019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s16.postimg.org/z05tlqxi9/iphone_015.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s16.postimg.org/ym4hm5dep/iphone_023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s16.postimg.org/njzenpjc1/iphone_026.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
I have a brand new mild steel mid pipe for the spitfire which will fit a 1500 with a twin port manifold and downpipe available if anyone wants it. It won't fit my car as I have a single port manifold.
I have replaced the brake adjuster but still can't get the drum back on. Very fustrating >:(
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 03, July, 2013, 09:34:12 PM
I have a brand new mild steel mid pipe for the spitfire which will fit a 1500 with a twin port manifold and downpipe available if anyone wants it. It won't fit my car as I have a single port manifold.
I have replaced the brake adjuster but still can't get the drum back on. Very fustrating >:(
Hi mate - have you let the handbrake cable right off
you could try putting leading edges on both brake shoe's that some times helps
Agree with Santa. Brake adjuster needs to be completely released and handbrake off before even trying to put the drum back and even then will need to be wriggled into place then tighten up the adjuster til the wheel starts to bind on the shoes, with that done make sure the brakes are bled then press the foot brake down a few times to even out the shoe pressure, recheck the adjuster with the hand brake off, you should just hear or feel the shoes rubbing. ;D Just done it all on mine. (and never do the small screw that holds the drum on to tight as it will be a bugger to get off next time, just a gentle nip)
8)
Quote from: Bulldog Bri on 05, July, 2013, 12:13:36 PM
Agree with Santa. Brake adjuster needs to be completely released and handbrake off before even trying to put the drum back and even then will need to be wriggled into place then tighten up the adjuster til the wheel starts to bind on the shoes, with that done make sure the brakes are bled then press the foot brake down a few times to even out the shoe pressure, recheck the adjuster with the hand brake off, you should just hear or feel the shoes rubbing. ;D Just done it all on mine. (and never do the small screw that holds the drum on to tight as it will be a bugger to get off next time, just a gentle nip)
8)
and as I was told by one expert many years ago " don't forget to put that small screw in, because if you don't - the wheel will fall off :o
Cheers for the help, I think I had one of the pads upside down but I was following the instructions, I'll give it another go soon, it's too damn hot in the garage to do anything at the moment.
managed to get the drum on with brute force but found it was still too tight, slightly misaimed persuader hit one of the wheel studs which then dropped into the drum. It all came back off again >:( including the retaining springs. I got it all back together then tried the drum which slipped straight on without a problem :P I just have to fill the system with new fluid and bleed it all. I have to get a bracket on the back of one of the drums welded back on first though.
Need to save some money up and get the welding and body painted up next.
Perhaps you, Yellabelly & Robp should hire a garage with a compressor & spend a weekend doing all three in one go! :D
Quote from: Moleman on 23, July, 2013, 08:14:48 PM
Perhaps you, Yellabelly & Robp should hire a garage with a compressor & spend a weekend doing all three in one go! :D
Must admit, me and Jan are wondering if it would be a viable proposition to restore classics as a business :D Just need some collatoral and some cars :)
Not quite ready for paint as I need the welding doing first.
Now the brake lines are in I will start on the clutch, how can I check if the clutch is worth keeping or replacing?
Quote from: bluehornetrider on 26, July, 2013, 06:28:24 PM
how can I check if the clutch is worth keeping or replacing?
I didn't have the engine and box out of my Spit so just hoped the clutch would be OK. It was seized as the car had been laid up for so long but freed off easily enough when I got the engine running.
Yours is out of the car, isn't it. I'm not sure how to check a clutch with it sitting on the bench. Anyone else help here?
I would give the friction plate a real good check-over and make sure there is no sign of any contaminant such as oil etc.
Also make sure there is a good mm or so before you are down to the rivets.
Sometimes it can be worth running some medium grit wet&dry over the friction plate and the clutch/flywheel face just to make sure they are a little scrubbed for better friction. Once done, just give them a wipe off with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or similar.
Other than that I can't think what else other than fitting it :)
HTH
cheers for the advice, hope you had a dry run on sunday.
As my computer doesn't want me to upload pictures at the moment I'll just have to tell you that the spit is booked in for welding and paint in September.
I have painted the radiator with high temp black paint and painted the gearbox so it's al looking a lot better.
I have mounted the rad to the frame and cleaned up one of my alternators and mounted to the engine, unfortunately I can't get the fan belt to fit over so will have to get another slightly longer belt. I have fitted the doors lower valances and headlight surrounds on a temporary basis as these items need to get welded and painted.
I bought second hand rad support brackets, over-rider covers, rear lights with gaskets, radiator cowl boards and engine side boards but am looking at replicating these fibreboard items in stainless now I have templates to work from.
I have started work on the seat base frames and the starter motor as well.
i'm sure I ordered a 1500 spitfire fanbelt but it's nearly an inch shy of the tightest setting, my engine no. is YC58273HE would this make a difference? is it from a dolomite? any help would be appreciated.
I ordered the fan belt for our 1500 midget (same engine as the spit') and although I thought it was too small to start with, it was just a little difficult to fit. I put it on the bottom pulley and the alternator, then just 'encouraged' it over the water pump pulley as I turned the engine by hand. Worked fine, just took a little effort.
I'm sure after a couple of hundred miles it will have stretched a fair bit as it settles in and need re-adjusting.
HTH
JB
okay thanks for that I have ordered another as it was only 3 quid but will try again later.
I'm still waiting for my welding and painting to be done, at the moment all the tradesmen I ask to do work fail to show up, it's as if they don't want my money. ???
Must be using the wrong people ;D ;D
Shame I don't have a welder at my works mate. I believe in offering a good service. Even if a customer tells me no rush I will still crack on with there work. Hope they change there mind and take on your work. If they don't look elsewhere. Plenty of people out there who will take your money.
Sorted out your pc yet so you post some pics?
I've ordered a new HDD so when that arrives I'll try again.
(http://s21.postimg.org/dw26792ir/iphone_025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
Any progress on this one?
8)
All gone a bit cold with it as I'm sorting the porsche out that I can drive and enjoy. As soon as that's okay I will get the spitfire sorted out so that the wife can drive it