Thought it was about time I started putting down some info on my 7's build.
Started of when my freind came over with that darn book 'Build your own Sportscar for £250' Ha! He knew I'd built a car in the past and was looking for a new project. So I was taken in straight away...
So I went out, got the steel and bought an old welder of another freind and got stuck in.
After loads of hunting found an old Mk2 Escort estate 1300, that had been left in a hedge for 12 years with only 32thou on the clock, up in Cheltenham. That alone was £250. So book budget gone in one!
That was soon stripped and body shell scraped. Took the engine apart and rebuilt it and just cleaned everything else that was needed.
After a few months the chassis was rolling. The engine turned over and started almost first time, which was great as I hadn't been able to try it until then, even from when I bought it.
A stroke of luck got me the floor and main body panels. Where i work, were replacing a few of the docking bays (where we back our lorries in) making them larger for taller artics. and the side panels from these were in a skip. One quick request to a manager got me 2 of them.
Ebay, as I'm sure a lot of you are finding is a great source of parts to, I've got my Nosecone, front and rear wings, roll bar, fuel tank, mirrors, seatbelts and many other items that way. The seats were an old pair of coach seats a freind from work had in his garden! and were the perfect width. Just need to be re-covered.
I've tended to buy bits over the winter months and build from spring onwards. So far it's taken 2 years to get to where I am in the build, so hoping this is the last year and on the road for next spring... money and tests permiting, lol.
There are only a few more smallish jobs left to do on the car, and I'll post on here as they get done. Yesterday I finished putting in the seatbelts (just a small bit of welding left to do with them. Today I'm making a start on the Boot area, thist will cover the fuel tank and just leave the filler cap sticking out of the boot floor, so with a lid to cover the boot, should be good and safe for the road and tests.......!
Thats all for now, watch this space.
8)
If somebody told me I could build a car for £250, I'd have a go too.
Nice story Brian. Look forward to updates.
Great yarn unfolding
That IVA fee will bump the cost a fair old percentage ;)
Yeah, not happy with it but you've just got to with it if you want your car on the road. Just hope that when my car does go for it's test, it doesn't fail on to much, as I'm sure it will fail first time but with a list of the bits that need to be sorted.
Managed to get a fair bit of work done this last week on the 7, as you can see from my pic posted the boot is all but done I've also gone through the engine as I've had a bad missfire, would idle but not rev. Timing is good, got good compression on all cylinders. So this week I'm changing all the plugs and leads (they are the original ones from the donor) so that may help. And I've now ajusted the wiring and made the holes for the 2 extra warning lights I need on the dash. 1 for the fan and the other and the other for the brake fluid warning light. I've just got wait for the new set to arrive as they now are required to have the correct symbol on them for the IVA test not just a coloured light....
Once I have those things sorted I think it's finished..... just have to save for the test :'(
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You have been busy !
The car looked great Brian. I would love to have a tinker with that engine. Hopefully the new leads etc will sort. If not give me a ring.
Certainly will. As I can't think of anything else to do..
8)
Wow great weather today! and finally got the Locost out of the garage and running again. I got the new set of dash warning lights through the post on Friday but they had only sent a set with 5 in, not the set of 7 I wanted! so still waiting to put the dash back in completely. It ran lovely and smooth though and had to resist taking it out on the road.
Only a few small jobs left and a small earthing prob' with the full beem lights to sort out left to do.
will have to start the paper chase soon :(
Good luck there mate, great progress!! if you a second pair of eyes on the paperwork just let me know.
A second and third pair mate. I'll give you a shout when I start on it..
8)
Will be interesting to see which bits of the paperwork are most challenging, suspect it will change for each of us but I wouldn't mind betting there will be some common ground.
You are really making progress, hope the missing bits turn up quickly.
Great news, I've managed to get hold of the V5 for the Ford Escort I used to build my Locost with. So it should be easier to get the car registered with an age related plate. ;D
8)
Might make the whole process a bit simpler too :)
Finally got my first weekend free since xmas and the problems with power to the garage after a burst water pipe :(
I've found where the cable comes into the garage and gonna work from there. I'll worry about the water supply later in the year ;)
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Have now gone through all conections leading to the fusebox, made sure they were all clean put it all back together and power is now restored :P
Happy chappie again ;D
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Quote from: bulldog bri on 23, January, 2010, 09:40:41 AM
Have now gone through all conections leading to the fusebox, made sure they were all clean put it all back together and power is now restored :P
Did you find an obvious fault? Just curious.
Nope :-[ all conections were clean and dry. ???
So put them back together and wraped some insulating tape around both ends, this should help keep some mosture out. ;)
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Blimey, seems ages since I wrote up anything about the Locost :( Now that the Gentry is out of the way and looking like it not far from finished (fingers crossed) I've started going through the 7 and seeing whats left to do.
I've also started on the registration process and making notes as that goes along, when all is done I'll be doing a new post on how and what was needed to be done for that as well, so that it is finally down for people to work to as there isn't a comprehensive guide just odd bits here and there. Fingers crossed all done by Stoneleigh :P
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Quote from: bulldog bri on 03, March, 2012, 06:36:27 PMFingers crossed all done by Stoneleigh :P
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Me too Bri! I just hope I can get enough time on it to sort out the car and paperwork in between oveseas bloody trips >:(
Most jobs done now, found a hydraulic leak from the front brake line 'T'-piece so need to remake the flare and do a l-o-o-o-o-o-n-g pressure test on the system once finished.
Let us know how the paper trail bit for IVA goes mate ;)
John
Good luck sorting out your braking.
I've been playing for the first time with mine got it started and running nicely though the battery isn't the best :-[ and had a quick sneaky blast up and down the road, brakes are a bit tight arfter being sat still for s-o-o-o-o-o long and the welding in one of the seats is not the best. ::) Got another set of seat belts coming as missing a bit on one set in there. Run through the electrics. a new feul cap seal and secure the front grill.
but its now to be taken up to the DVLA on Tuesday for inspection. Gulp!!! hopefully should get a VIN number then IVA apliacation can be sent off. :o
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Do you need to take it to DVLA first then? I didn't realise that, or is that just the way you are doing it?
I went there on Friday to try and get a VIN number for my car and they said before they could issue one they needed to inspect the car. So I'm booked in for Tuesdsy.
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Big thanks to WALLNUT for letting me use the trailer again.
(http://s17.postimage.org/pewqf95d7/20120306_095739.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pewqf95d7/)
All the paperwork done and inspected, only managed 5 points out of the 8 required for an age related plate :( so I've got to have the 'Q' plate. Not to worried as I asked if it was still possible to request my on letters on it and was told yes shouldn't be a problem once all the paperwork (IVA, registration bits) were finished, I ask DVLA at Swansea it issue the plate bit not the local office. (could be a small extra fee)
8)
Can you really personalise Q plates? What are you going to have on yours?
Gonna try for 'Q7 BMV'
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Just got a new set of seat belts of Ebay for the Locost, just a bit grubby. Any ideas on what to use to clean them up?
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Quote from: bulldog bri on 08, March, 2012, 10:33:23 AM
Gonna try for 'Q7 BMV'
8)
Just got a new set of seat belts of Ebay for the Locost, just a bit grubby. Any ideas on what to use to clean them up?
8)
The other half? :D :))
Quote from: YellaBelly on 08, March, 2012, 04:37:40 PM
The other half? :D :))
I thought that was a good answer. :P :P
Well I've started back on the 7 AGAIN!!! ???
After getting the car started and finding a few electrical faults, it turns out the old heater matrix now leaks more than it's worth :( so that's been removed and a simple ali plate made up to cover the hole, though this will give me easy access to the back of the dash if ever needed ::)
Electrical faults are turning headlights on the main beam warning light glows and the indicators have decided to stick in the on position rather than flash >:(
Seats have been bolted back in with a new set of runners fitted to one of then. and an old Westfield crash pad that goes over the dash has been modified to fit and recovered.
Once all this has been sorted I'll tidy the bodywork up while getting underway with the paperwork AGAIN! :-[
(http://s7.postimg.org/qrwd4kmdj/20140507_122843_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/qrwd4kmdj/)
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So when do you think Dusty will be up & running then mate. :)
Your guess is as good as mine mate ??? But gonna put some long hours back in to get it going. Asap ;) just paperwork and the fact it's all over at Swansea now, don't know how that's gonna effect registering now! :'(
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Glad to see all the pressure payed off mate ;) Good to see you getting on with it again :D
Bri,
I'm a little slow reading this thread but:
Seatbelts clean well with Carpet cleaner shampoo - the stuff you put in a Bex Bissel or Vax - dilute 10:1, scrub with a nail brush then wash off - finish with a dry brush to remove any white power and vacuum - should look spiffing in the end.
The stuck indicators could be a welded flasher relay contact (replace) or a bad earth if they are dim as well - make a new earth contact.
Finish soon and enjoy the sun! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
I've taken the cover off the flasher unit and the relay switch does click over. ??? And they aren't dim, bright enough to melt the lenses on the small front ones. :'(
8)
Here is the flasher unit
(http://s11.postimg.org/bscvh9va7/20140510_101720.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/bscvh9va7/)
I've been around and disconnected all the indicators and plugged them in individually but still the same result. If I can't find a problem looks like it's total rewire of the circuit. >:(
8)
I have a flasher unit that I know works ok. Where are you?
New Cheltenham Road, Kingswood. Just up from the post office ::)
;D 8)
Quote from: benchmark51 on 10, May, 2014, 03:27:15 PM
I have a flasher unit that I know works ok. Where are you?
Thanks Dave for bring it over, it nearly worked, (hazards only) so shows it's not the wiring that cocked up. Got a new one on order now off Ebay. Sorted :P
8)
Quote from: Bulldog Bri on 14, May, 2009, 10:12:26 AM
Thought it was about time I started putting down some info on my 7's build.
Started of when my freind came over with that darn book 'Build your own Sportscar for £250' Ha! He knew I'd built a car in the past and was looking for a new project. So I was taken in straight away...
So I went out, got the steel and bought an old welder of another freind and got stuck in.
After loads of hunting found an old Mk2 Escort estate 1300, that had been left in a hedge for 12 years with only 32thou on the clock, up in Cheltenham. That alone was £250. So book budget gone in one!
That was soon stripped and body shell scraped. Took the engine apart and rebuilt it and just cleaned everything else that was needed.
After a few months the chassis was rolling. The engine turned over and started almost first time, which was great as I hadn't been able to try it until then, even from when I bought it.
A stroke of luck got me the floor and main body panels. Where i work, were replacing a few of the docking bays (where we back our lorries in) making them larger for taller artics. and the side panels from these were in a skip. One quick request to a manager got me 2 of them.
Ebay, as I'm sure a lot of you are finding is a great source of parts to, I've got my Nosecone, front and rear wings, roll bar, fuel tank, mirrors, seatbelts and many other items that way. The seats were an old pair of coach seats a freind from work had in his garden! and were the perfect width. Just need to be re-covered.
I've tended to buy bits over the winter months and build from spring onwards. So far it's taken 2 years to get to where I am in the build, so hoping this is the last year and on the road for next spring... money and tests permiting, lol.
There are only a few more smallish jobs left to do on the car, and I'll post on here as they get done. Yesterday I finished putting in the seatbelts (just a small bit of welding left to do with them. Today I'm making a start on the Boot area, thist will cover the fuel tank and just leave the filler cap sticking out of the boot floor, so with a lid to cover the boot, should be good and safe for the road and tests.......!
Thats all for now, watch this space.
8)
well done babe! Shouldnt be too long now and you will be able to get it IVAd. Been sitting there for years. Then all 3 kitcars will be up and running. And we can start redecorating the house lol
1 step forward and 2 steps back it feels like today :(
Flashers now half working so can't be a wiring problem, :) Hazards work indicators don't!
Tried wiring up the fuel gauge.. can only get it working in reverse, empty on the gauge=full tank! and visa versa I've tried every combination of wire connection >:( either nothing or full, even tried with a spare sender unit out of another tank! and a spare gauge, same every time. :'(
Also ran the engine up to temperature and found a water leak from the water pump :'(
??? 8)
Sorry to hear this mate. I'm now thinking don't rush getting the Locost finished especially if you are like me & hate decorating! ;)
Think I'll decorate the garage first ;)
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Brian,
Sympathy - heres a simple diagram for hazard and indicator wiring using your relay - only 3 terminals will be used out of 4. The hazard switch is just a double pole switch that connects the two circuits together so that both sides flash instead of one or the other. Note that on this diagram the green and the black on the relay are show the wrong way round! Green is normally the switched ignition 12V supply and Black is earth or chassis but the pin connections are correct and the labelling is right.
With indicators they are permanently connected to earth and the relayy is connected to the ignition live. So when a switch connection is made to the earthed bulb it will flash the relay. As the hazard switch works and the indicator switch doesn't - it proves the relay works, the bulbs are okay and their earths. So all that is left is the common wire from 49a to the turn switch OR both the left and right signal wires are disconnected OR the switch is broken. The latter may be safely proved by just shorting between the common wire from 49a and each of the two left/right wires in turn. If that works it proves the switch has had it. If neither works then there is only the common wire left.
(http://s30.postimg.org/3whdlsm19/Indicator_Hazard_lights.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3whdlsm19/)
Finally colour codes are variable so you may have to prove the wiring with a continuity tester or a meter.
Fuel gauge - more current from the sender = lower fuel indication. If you are getting an empty reading then too much current is passing to the gauge and it indicaes a problem with the sender resistor being failed to low resistance or you have a full battery voltage being applied to the gauge and bypassing the float resistor. I am presuming your sender and gauge are matched or you may have a sender that is sending too low a reistance for your particular guage You need to check the make and model of each and look up the spec. If you have a full tank you can maesure the full resistance of your sender in ohms - check that is the right value for your gauge. PM me if you can't crack - I am very willing to help if I can.
Regards
Ian
Ian thank you for the diagram I think that will help me as well as I have had indicators doing funny things as well. ???
Thanks Ian, The fuel sender is in an old Triumph Spitfire tank (and will be Damn hard to get to) the spare sender was out of a Marina tank and they used old Smiths gauges with 2 terminals on the back, the gauge I have now has 3 terminals. (so did the spare gauge I was using). So this could be my problem. :(
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Hi Brian,
This is a knotty problem. Early senders used higher current to indicate empty and later sender higher current to indicate Full. Basically the sender and gauge have to be paired - there is no consistent standard out there. Some work 10-69 ohms reverse and some 100-300 ohms forward to be utterly incompatible. At least you have two choices - match the gauge to the sender or the sender to the gauge. On three terminal gauges the third terminal is earth, B is Battery and T is Tank (sender).
I found this article on early senders using a three terminal gauge http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Articles/Fuel%20Gauge%20Working/ (http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Articles/Fuel%20Gauge%20Working/) but it is best to work with modern gauges and senders if you can.
Best solution buy both new as a matched pair - sorry.
Bri,
My Locost used a Spitfire fuel tank and sender with the guage from somewhere else (can't remember where). Maybe I was lucky, but after some 'faffing' I got it fairly accurate.
JB
As we've come to expect, Ian you a mine of knowledge! :). I bought the set of gauges as they had very rounded bezels for IVA (and they were cheap) never crossed my mind that they had changed how to wire the things up, wondering if I can get a set of Smith gauges and switch the innards, Or even just fit the new bezels on them. Lol ::)
All I wanted was a set that matched and that's hard with Smith stuff :'(
8)
A little disappointed this morning, the new Escort Mk2 Flasher unit arrived and it's giving me the same as before, just hazards so something is amiss with the wires, gulp! :'(
8)
Sorted :P not quite sure what it was but they now WORK! everybody stand down, panic over. Lol. :P
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Glad to hear it's working at last mate. :)
That'll be a loose connection then - ferret around in there long enough and you'll bump it back in place. It won't fail again until you need to use them of course! ;D
Nice one Bri - now you can get back to some proper flashing ;D
He does enough of that at home! LOL :P
Naughtie boy :P :P
:-[
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Fair play Bri. That makes to of us. :P
Have given up on all my old carb's and ordered a brand new one :o ready set for the Crossflow :P.
So had a garage clear out and lots of bit's now up on Ebay to cover it ;D (about time I did anyway ;))
8)
You will have to give the rest of the engine a clean as those nice new shinny carb's will stand out a mile. 8)
Hope you get a bidding war on your parts mate. :)
Quote from: Bulldog Bri on 26, May, 2014, 11:07:58 AM
Have given up on all my old carb's and ordered a brand new one :o ready set for the Crossflow :P.
So had a garage clear out and lots of bit's now up on Ebay to cover it ;D (about time I did anyway ;))
8)
Here's one to try
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weber-Tipo-32-Carburettor-/141296655111?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e5efdb07
Thanks but I've already ordered a new one. Anyway, that one is pick up only in Leeds :o.
8)
Shiny bits for Dusty, Yeah I know not as exciting as Pete's shiny V8 bits but it's made the difference for me and my little engine, it now rev's up a treat. Will be cleaning up the old one to sell on now ;)
(http://s9.postimg.org/4dvjg7cyz/20140529_115122_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4dvjg7cyz/)
Just looking for an old Smiths Temp and Oil gauge for the dash
8)
Glad it's working now mate. Well you don't have so much to polish as Peter then. :P
Its really getting close now for IVA :D. Well done babe! :D. And yes I will want to be driving it to Queen Square LOL
Quote from: Pilgrim Anna on 02, June, 2014, 06:50:04 PM
Its really getting close now for IVA :D. Well done babe! :D. And yes I will want to be driving it to Queen Square LOL
(http://s29.postimg.org/7l3hrc85v/image.gif) (http://postimage.org/)
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Anna,
I am confident you will drive to Queens Square and back again - it will be that reliable! 8) :P :D
Looking forward to it! If it breaks down we know who to blame! :P
Argh!!!!!!!! Just found a wiring fault on the 7, Rear sidelight goes out when the brake light goes on :o (How did that happen :-[) think I've found the problem :P but it's in a very tight space >:(
8)
Well that would be Murphy's Law then. But at least you found it now and that has to be good news. I dont know about you but I'm getting excited....
Good luck
Ian
Come on Brian, enough already. Stop stalling !! ;) :D
I know the feeling mate. I had a to find a faulty wire on a track day which thanks to some good friends & guys from the club we managed to find it over the lunch break & get back out there ready for an afternoon of going around the track. 8)
Ok!
I've fitted DRL's on the car and find the LED's. :)
Problem.. The LED's keep blowing >:(, They were bought as a 12V set for cars, I've fitted with the appropriate relay that turns them off when the side lights go on, only thing I can think is that I don't think there is a fuse in the circuit would this cause a problem even after the relay?
8)
Hi Brian,
They shouldn't "blow" in any circumstance. If they are 3W they will pull 1/4 amp and so a 1 amp fuse would cover both. If they are 9W each than they will be pulling 1.5 amps and a 5 Amp fuse circuit would be best. It might be that you have wired you isolator relay incorrectly. It should should switch the relay when a voltage appears on the parking lights wire. The supply to the LED positive is always conected and so is the chassis earth. With the parking lights sensor wire disconnected the DRL's should stay on. With the Parking lights on, dab the sensor wire on the now powered parking light suply and you should see the DRL go off. If this simple test does not work then the Relay is likely wroongly wired. Possibly live and earth are reversed - thast might operate the DRL but would not switch properly. If you can't crack it give me a call and I will assist.
Ian
Just fitted another set of DRL's with a 3A inline fuse this time, hopefully that will go first but really hoping the last set were faulty in some way.
8)
Not long now! Looking forward to being driven in it! :D You sure know how to sweep me off my feet :P
Well, Ok. Finally got my date for the dreaded IVA :-\
Fri 8th August, 8:00am
Colin is kindly helping get the car down for the test on his trailer, I know I could drive there but just don't want to chance a silly breakdown on the way and miss out. Seeing that we only get back from our hol's at midnight before the test, I'm gonna be a bag of tired nerves on the way over. Lol
(http://s29.postimg.org/48f8ixv9f/20140712_103355_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/48f8ixv9f/)
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GOOD LUCK MATE!!
Fingers crossed for you Bri ;) :D
Not only wil you be tired from your holiday but you wont sleep between now and then!
All the best for the day - if any kit car builder desrved it - its you. And may the sun shine on you on the 9th! 8) 8) 8) 8)
BTW Bri, it isn't as bad as they say......IT'S WORSE!!! only kidding mate, you'll be fine I'm sure ;) :D
So??????
Well with Bri on his way back from his hols. I have picked up Dusty though I had a few Hiccups with garage doors & car tyres. So hopefully that's all the gremlin's out the way. :)
Dusty is now in my garage ready for the trip tomorrow to get his IVA sorted. 8)
(http://s7.postimg.org/p7fwy51mf/20140807_211113.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/p7fwy51mf/)
Fingers crossed both :D
Ok! Well yes Dusty failed :(
Quick run down of what it failed on:-
1. Horn didn't work! (due to blown fuse, sorted)
2. Interior mirror must be fitted (need to find one that meets IVA requirements)
3. Side mirrors, though the glass was the right size didn't stick out far enough for good visibility (need to change)
4. Brake light dash warning light, no test switch or activation on the handbrake. (wire something up)
5. Brakes on the front not balanced. (Probably just buy new callipers rather than stripping the old ones down) Service the rear ones.
6. Couple of surfaces and edges need covering in hard rubber type material (Thick rubber should do)
7. Seatbelt mounting brackets weren't thick enough steal (only 2mm instead of 4mm, will double up and weld a second layer over)
8. Seatbelt upper mount point wasn't adequate (needs crush tube welded through the full width of the roll bar)
9. Couple of parts of the chassis stick out a little to far so need sorting (will reshape so not sticking out so far)
10. Speedo was reading a slight bit slower than actual speed up to 50mph then was ok. (Might have to change to electronic speedo)
11. Remove the bloody DRL's, new set with small inline fuse still had only 4 LED's working when tested on one side (Grrrrrrrr)
12. Headlights were to dim (check wiring and earths)
13. Hazard warning lights didn't work (Blown fuse, sorted)
14. Indicators didn't work (blown fuse, sorted)
15. Brake light decided to not work! (check bulb and wiring)
16. Headlamps need adjusting (on re-test)
17. Not a correct rear fog light (wasn't bright enough and not correctly marked (Duh)
18. Declared weight of vehicle wasn't quite enough (re-declare at re-test)
19. Small bit of re-welding on front lower wishbone (oops)
20. Missing lock nuts on front track rods (source new)
21. O/S front wing touches the body on full lock (restrict steering movement somehow)
22. Steering column needs redoing as U/J had to much play (buy new U/J and get re-welded on to tube)
23. Fuel filter bit to loose (needs securing)
24. Weld in some bracing for the roll bar
25. Tidy up rear wiring. (few stray wires)
The good bit
self-centering of the steering was one of the best he'd tested
I've now got 6 months to get all these little bits sorted for a re-test or it's the whole thing again ???
8)
:( Looks like a long list there Bri!!! Mind you most can be sorted with ease.. Fingers crossed for the re-test.. Look forward to seeing the Locost7 on the road mate :D
Oh, and the seats need under floor bracing (Not just bolted through the floor :-[)
8)
Well the day started off ok even the ballon's came out to see us start.
(http://s24.postimg.org/7djwjjai9/20140808_073412.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7djwjjai9/)
Then a nervous Bri takes Dusty to be tested.
(http://s7.postimg.org/56vqw5azb/20140808_073354.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/56vqw5azb/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/ry56qvb3d/20140808_073401.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ry56qvb3d/)
The tester was nice & friendly But my hat goes off to anyone who builds from scratch as this test would really put me off from doing it. I would say 75% of it is justified but also 25% with silly things that really is stupid. ::)
Sorry to hear that Bri - that's quite a list to get through. One at time - tick them off and you'll soon be back again. At least you now have a finite scope.
Cheers Adrian
Quite a lot of the stuff they require gets dumped after the test because it is just stupid. A bit like the driving test really. You learn everything it takes to pass the test, then after the test is out the way you learn how to drive.
With all these silly nut covers and edge beading rules, why not put a big plastic cover over the front of the car for test purposes. Much the same as modern cars are anyway.
I know the feeling Bri, as you know mine failed the first go. Just look at the list as a 'do this and she'll pass' list ;)
A lot of them jobs will be dead easy to sort to a man of your calibre :D
Still plenty of time to get her sorted for the remainder of the summer.
Hi Bri,
The list looks okay to fix for a man of your skills. The steering is relatively easy to limit. It sounds a bit of a bodge but pull back the inner gaiters and clamp a jubilee clip around the steering rod to stop it going into the rack housing. That is what is fitted to my Tiger rack and it works just fine and a very common mod to prevent fouling on suspension tie bar.
Good luck with it, soon be on the road.
Good luck getting through your list Bri. Nothing there too difficult or expensive I hope, I'm sure you'll soon rattle through 'em and be on the road later this summer. I admire you builder guys for putting yourselves through this ordeal 8)
Unlucky Bri. I'm sure you will get it sorted.
Im sure you will get her through next time no problem,still plenty of summer left to enjoy :) :)
Bri,
That type of fuse is infamous for bad connections - they don't form air-tight seals like blade fuses so when you have cleaned the fuses it is wise to put a dab of vaseline on each end covering the whole contact. That stops the oxidation and bad contacts.
Ian
Quote from: Iancider on 09, August, 2014, 09:12:42 PM
Bri,
That type of fuse is infamous for bad connections - they don't form air-tight seals like blade fuses so when you have cleaned the fuses it is wise to put a dab of vaseline on each end covering the whole contact. That stops the oxidation and bad contacts.
Ian
Good idea! I'll get some off Pete, hopefully not used ;)
8)
Warning
To any other builders out there, we were told during my IVA that all VOSA test centres are being closed down, no date as yet. All IVA's will be done by private company's. Whether this will be good for the kit industry or not remains to be seen, but any change normally means bad news!
8)
Mine was tested a Kidderminster and was the last kit car tested there. Bit of an over-reaction I thought but I didn't take it personally! ;D
So Kidderminster will from now on only do Commercials, Ambulances and Fire Engines.
The problem seems to be that there is no Minister for Kit Cars. Who should we nominate?
Candidates should be honourable, reliable, honsest, pro-British, dependable, decent, consistent, thoughtful, kind and considerate, good with their hands, born of common blood, sympathetic to industry, good at making commitments and answering questions, must represent our views...
Bummer - can't think of any!
Quote from: Iancider on 21, August, 2014, 12:10:48 PM
......The problem seems to be that there is no Minister for Kit Cars. Who should we nominate?
Candidates should be honourable, reliable, honest, pro-British, dependable, decent, consistent, thoughtful, kind and considerate, good with their hands, born of common blood, sympathetic to industry, good at making commitments and answering questions, must represent our views.....
Easy one that, Hairy :D :P plus he's got several cars too :D
Easy one that, Hairy :D :P plus he's got several cars too :D
Gosh, it was obvious really.
So HairySanta is now El Presidente and is herby elected to Parliament with one vote just like most people called El Presidente - a kind of General Election - you know like those where the same Generals keep electing themselves.
Good thinking Yellabelly.
Thanks for posting the iva list up Bri. It's really useful. We're doing ours from scratch so all this is really useful to see especially at our early stage. The seat belt fixings are of interest as we're looking at our frame and roll bar position at the moment. Good luck with the fixes and retest. All looks doable.
Ok! Well yes Dusty failed :(
Work progressing very well here,
Quick run down of what it failed on:-
1. Horn didn't work! (due to blown fuse, sorted) Fixed
2. Interior mirror must be fitted New one fitted
3. Side mirrors, though the glass was the right size didn't stick out far enough for good visibility New ones fitted
4. Brake light dash warning light, no test switch or activation on the handbrake. (wire something up)
5. Brakes on the front not balanced. New caplipers fitted Service the rear ones.
6. Couple of surfaces and edges need covering in hard rubber type material (Thick rubber should do)
7. Seatbelt mounting brackets weren't thick enough steal (only 2mm instead of 4mm, will double up and weld a second layer over)Have checked and they were 4mm
8. Seatbelt upper mount point wasn't adequate (needs crush tube welded through the full width of the roll bar) Drilled out and ready for tube welding
9. Couple of parts of the chassis stick out a little to far so need sorting (will reshape so not sticking out so far) New covers made
10. Speedo was reading a slight bit slower than actual speed up to 50mph then was ok. (Might have to change to electronic speedo)
11. Remove the bloody DRL's, new set with small inline fuse still had only 4 LED's working when tested on one side (Grrrrrrrr) Gone
12. Headlights were to dim (check wiring and earths)
13. Hazard warning lights didn't work (Blown fuse)
14. Indicators didn't work (blown fuse, sorted) Flasher unit blown again
15. Brake light decided to not work! Fixed
16. Headlamps need adjusting (on re-test)
17. Not a correct rear fog light (wasn't bright enough and not correctly marked New one fitted
18. Declared weight of vehicle wasn't quite enough (re-declare at re-test)
19. Small bit of re-welding on front lower wishbone (oops)
20. Missing lock nuts on front track rods (source new)
21. O/S front wing touches the body on full lock Thanks Steve for the fix
22. Steering column needs redoing as U/J had to much play New made up with new U/J's
23. Fuel filter bit to loose (needs securing)
24. Weld in some bracing for the roll bar Bracing bars made ready for welding
25. Tidy up rear wiring. Done
26. Seats didn't have any chassis bars to bolt on to Angle iron bolted to chassis
The good bit
self-centering of the steering was one of the best he'd tested
I've now got 6 months to get all these little bits sorted for a re-test or it's the whole thing again ???
8)
Gosh,
You don't hang about Brian - well done or is that weld done already? ;D
Nah, all the welding is prepped and ready to be done, had the steering U/J's done by a neighbour, just waiting on a couple of bits then he can come over and do the rest.
8)
Didn't fail on much then...
Your doing really well. Shouldn't be long before retest ;)
Another one to tick off the list mate. You can pick it up any time. :D
(http://s14.postimg.org/tpykh63zh/20140829_151122.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/tpykh63zh/)
Not having any luck with the locking nuts that size with the fine thread though. :(
They look the biz mate, Thanks loads. Don't worry about me nuts, think I've found them on Ebay. ;) Gonna give these a try 161125642945
8)
you could try
Chris at
Kembrell Nuts and Bolts Ltd
Unit 2A
Cater Road
Bishopsworth Industrial Estate
BS13 7TW
0117 983 0022
Chris was mega helpful when I was stuck for bolts for my type 9, had them on the shelf!
Thanks for that Dave. If those nuts I've ordered aren't the right ones then I'll go see him. :)
8)
Quote from: benchmark51 on 30, August, 2014, 11:36:03 PM
you could try
Chris at
Kembrell Nuts and Bolts Ltd
Unit 2A
Cater Road
Bishopsworth Industrial Estate
BS13 7TW
0117 983 0022
Chris was mega helpful when I was stuck for bolts for my type 9, had them on the shelf!
I got the nut through from Ebay, But no, the tread wasn't fine enough. :( So I dropped by Kembrell Nuts and Bolts and after a little searching he found a couple that did the job.
Fantastic place there, good size unit just full of all sizes of nuts and bolts (as you'd expect going by the name ;)) and very helpful. Thanks to Chris, and to Dave for the tip. ;D
8)
Not long now then mate. :)
Hopefully get it on road before winter hits!! ???
Well it's all done. Call up VOSA this morning and the earliest they can book me in is the end of the month :( after being told on the test day that I just need to simply call and drop the car by for a quick check over that all the work has been done. Now I'm being told it's a 2 hour re-test! Plus the 2 guys down there, 1 is on long term sick at the mo and the other is off sick! >:( :'( ???
(http://s30.postimg.org/fz0m3pasd/20140928_161434.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/fz0m3pasd/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/su8lqgq1p/20140928_161513.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/su8lqgq1p/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/y5s3ox1i5/20140928_161532.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/y5s3ox1i5/)
And also Colins unsure whether he can help on that date to... Anyone else available on the 27th Oct round 11:30 till 3ish with a trailer and tow vehicle? :-[
8)
I sympathise with you Bri, what a nightmare ::)
I'll help, but haven't got the tow vehicle or trailer. At a push can tow you on a rope?
That is why I would never do another build requiring the IVA Bri! Too costly and too much hassle! Let's hope it all gets sorted out soon mate and you can get on with the next phase........'the fettling'.....lol!
Bri,
I think I could help if nobody else can if Ed could oblige with his trailer. I have a hitch and Ed is not too far from you and I have tie-down have straps. I will need to check my diary at work but I think I could do this. Its good to have company for these things and I do sympathize with the waiting - they kept me hanging on for 5 months until every vestige of the summer had gone.
I will confirm as soon as I can. Still look on the bright side - when you get it on the road there is no chance of an overheating problem! ;D
Ian
Quote from: Iancider on 03, October, 2014, 09:06:12 PM
Still look on the bright side - when you get it on the road there is no chance of an overheating problem! ;D
Ian
Well not till the warmer weather again. :P
Thanks Ian, will keep you up to date ;D
8)
I should be able to take you down Bri, I'll check over the weekend. I'm sure between us we'll get you there somehow.
Whatever you do don't cancel the date they've given you 8)
Thanks guys ;D
8)
Good luck mate.
Quote from: YellaBelly on 03, October, 2014, 04:31:48 PM
You can get on with the next phase........'the fettling'.....lol!
I have started fettling, sort of, fuel tank is out and found the fuel sender is nackered and the temp gauge is also defunked, so looking for a replacement Mini Temp gauge ::) (neither were picked up in the IVA!)
8)
The regs say they have to be present and working but I didn't observe a test specifically. So if the engine hasn't run long it will show cold and if there is virtually not fuel, the gauges will correctly show zero. Both could pass when not working at all - bizarre. :o :D ;) :P
P.S. don't forget on older cars gauges and sender must be matched types to get the right indication.
Good luck with it Bri.
Argh!! ??? IVA date postponed by VOSA >:( Now have to wait till Mid Nov for my re-test :'(
Also a bit more info on VOSA stations (Nicked from a post on the Locostbuilders site)
Vosa test stations
Some info on the test stations
Vosa has confirmed it will cease testing at nine further vehicle testing stations by the end of the current financial year.
The Vosa stations that will cease testing by the end of March 2014 are in Beverley, Cardif, Calne, Edinburgh, Kidderminster, Northampton, Southampton, Wolverhampton and Wrexham.
The exact dates on which each will cease testing have not yet been determined, a spokeswoman for the agency said.
No decisions have been taken for the next financial year, either, she added.
"However, our strategy of taking testing closer to the customer will continue as planned and more tests will be carried out at ATFs [authorised testing facilities], away from Vosa test stations," she confirmed.
In the longer term, she added, Vosa's strategy remains "to transfer all testing to privately-owned sites."
In July, Vosa announced the opening of the 350th ATF, based in Bridgwater, Somerset and run by Morrisons.
The ATF Operators Association said it welcomed Vosa's decision to close test stations but "in order to help support further ATF expansion, we need a schedule of closures from Vosa with dates well in advance otherwise we risk competing against Vosa tets stations but at a huge disadvantage because its more expensive to the end user to use an ATF".
"It's a chicken and egg situation; we are shouting to Vosa to close test stations so that ATFs can open, but they are saying 'you open and then we'll close stations'," said Stephen Smith, president of the ATF Operators Association.
"I opened my first ATF hoping for Purfleet to close early but ended up waiting 18 months which cost me £30,000 in lost revenue," he added.
8)
That's a bummer! :(
Still only a few weeks away :)
Quote from: benchmark51 on 24, October, 2014, 12:17:25 PM
That's a bummer! :(
Still only a few weeks away :)
AGAIN :'(
8)
All back on again.... They've got another tester coming in from 'Up North' ;D
8)
Brian,
I feel for you and lived this pain. I worked like stink to get my car ready for summer and succeeded only to get a test in December on the bleakest day of the winter. It was minus two (as cold as it gets in Brass monkey terms ;D) and a 30mph wind. I could hardly grip my Pass Certificate in the end! But boy what a Christmas present that was!
Best wishes
Ian
This is it! IVA-Day AGAIN! :-\ ???
8)
Spanners crossed matey ;) :D
All the best Bri
Well, did it pass Bri?
Hope it went well
Ian
And? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Well? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? :-\
IT PASSED!!!!!!!
We got there nearly an hour early but the guy was ready and we went straight on with the test.I had 1 locking nut missing, And Ed (found one on his trailer that did the job. The speedo was nearly another small problem as the sensor doesn't read from a driven wheel, but as we'd done the appropriate calculations, the tester just took it around the yard and reckoned it was reading about right! ;D.
So it's just down to a paper chase now with the DVLA, hopefully that won't take too long. ::)
8)
That is excellent news ;D
Well done Bri 8)
Well done Bri. I bet thats a relief :)
Well done, wadya gonna do with all your spare time? I know start another. :o :P
I didn't want to steal your thunder Bri and spill the beans before you had the chance.
Bri struck it lucky with the stand in Geordie examiner, he was a friendly and chatty guy and allowed a bit of tinkering along the way. Once Bri got the gist of giving the correct responses when prompted, it all went very well ;D
It was interesting to see how it all worked, and I found it quite nerve racking - and it wasn't even my car :o ;D
Well done mate - hope to see the car out and about soon.
I do want to say a very big thank you to all that have helped me during the build, Pete, Ian, Colin, Ed, Tony, Dave to name a few.
BTW. Lets see that pic Ed. Was great to get me paws on that piece of paper.
8)
Well done Bri,
Completely deserved after all of this effort! I reckon a set of thermals is now required to enjoy a few outings.
The tester was wrong about the speed sensor - the preference is for an undriven wheel or they over-read when you spin the wheels! On front wheel drive cars the preference is for rear wheel sensing for the same reason. But over all he got it right!
Yehhh!
Ian
Spot on news Bri - well deserved. ;D
HAPPY CHAPPIE ;D ;D ;D
(http://s13.postimg.org/h7l3n2p6r/006.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/h7l3n2p6r/)
That's the happiest looking chappie I've seen in a long time ;D
Well done Bri! :D
I've got one of those exact same pictures, at the exact same spot! ;) Great feeling ain't it?
Don't forget to photo-copy the MAC chap, 'cos once the DVLA types get it it's gone forever! I will eventually get mine framed, after all it took 7 years to get it :D
Well done again mate, looking forward to seeing it in the flesh one day.
JB
Well done mate. :)
just got an MOT to get it through now then >:(
Quote from: Hairy Santa on 28, October, 2014, 03:11:47 PM
just got an MOT to get it through now then >:(
If it's a new reg Pete then it won't need one for 3 years.
Well done Bri.I was driving the marked police car that you pulled out in front of exiting the test centre and wondered who was the happy :D or sad :( bloke with the BKCC sticker on the rear panel of his '7'.Us boys in blue(police staff) don't miss much you know. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Excellent result.
Well done Bri that grin is justifiably deserved ;D ;D
Quote from: Sprint 7 on 28, October, 2014, 09:16:40 PM
Well done Bri.I was driving the marked police car that you pulled out in front of exiting the test centre and wondered who was the happy :D or sad :( bloke with the BKCC sticker on the rear panel of his '7'.Us boys in blue(police staff) don't miss much you know. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Excellent result.
:) 8)
Well done Bri, now you're have to learn to drive a '7'......bit different than a Bulldog! ::) ;D ;D
Brilliant Brian ... top marks and well deserved
All's seems to be going smoothly on the registration side, all paid up and just waiting to hear back from the DVLA.
While I've been waiting, I've got on with sorting a windscreen for the car. After trying to bid and buy from Ebay a few that have appeared, and lost :( I've decided in the true context of building my own car from scratch, so why cheat this last bit? ::)
I've followed the book on making a jig, to make my own.
First off, is to make a template of the screen size I want. from the centre I took out a circle the same diameter as the corners, this will be the wheel on the bending bar.
(http://s24.postimg.org/8670mutnl/20141114_101258_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8670mutnl/)
After that I made up a bar with the wheel this will help keep the channelling straight while it's being bent.
(http://s28.postimg.org/e5k482am1/20141114_114428_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/e5k482am1/)
(http://s29.postimg.org/ch6zw4sar/20141114_114515_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ch6zw4sar/)
(http://s28.postimg.org/sx1ejbgop/20141114_114547_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/sx1ejbgop/)
I will be heating up the Aluminium channel (annealing it) to soften it up before bending. Fingers crossed by the end of the weekend I should have a frame ready for some glass ;D
As usual work gets in the way of play :'(
8)
Credit where it's due mate :)
Always imnpressed by you resourcefulness Brian - that is a proper bit of Egyptian Technology there. 8)
Nice one Bri. Stick a few more holes in it afterwards so you can see were you are going. :P
That's what I was thinking...lol ;D ;D
Quote from: Moleman on 14, November, 2014, 07:23:20 PM
Nice one Bri. Stick a few more holes in it afterwards so you can see were you are going. :P
Sure I wrote 'Template' on there ;D
8)
Good work Bri
Cheers Adrian
The frame turned out ok. Here's a little Video I made while making it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMySHAmI2_4&feature=youtu.be
After the little blooper, I remade the bending bar with steel sides and finished it, a few skaggs and scratches but they'll polish out, on the whole not a bad result. ;D
8)
Nice vid Brian and such verbal restraint when the lever broke! 8) :P :D
Nicely done mate. 8)
Very clever great result :)
Dusty's all finished now guy's :P
(http://s27.postimg.org/lsi5uwizj/Smaller.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lsi5uwizj/)
What a Birthday pressie to myself, all the paperwork came through today. Got the plates made up and been for a little run. Now looking forward even more to the warmer weather. ;D
8)
That does look very tidy Bri :D
That's great news mate. I wonder which one will be at the Santa Run? :D
Help...... something just locked up on the rear axle. Stuck on the ring road near sainsburys :'(
Hi Brian,
HELP IS ON THE WAY ED IS COMING TO YOUR RESCUE
WHAT A CLUB THIS IS - BETTER THAN THE AA NOW!
Are you sorted? you have my phone number. Dave
You should have rang me mate. You know I was 2 mins from there. :) Did you get home ok?
All I can say is 'What a fantastic club this is' Big thank you to Ed for the rescue. We had to drag the car up on to the trailer as the back wheels weren't turning. By the look of it we think it's probably the gearbox as when the car was lifted the rear wheels would turn, one forwards the other backwards so the diff is working and the brakes not locked. Will know more tomorrow.
8)
No problems Bri, it's all part of the service - anyway it got me out of watching tonights gripping installment
of IACGMOOH ;D
PS I hope you enjoyed your birthday kebab :o ;D
Fantastic. What a great club we have here 8)
Well, I've got the prop disconnected from the rear diff' and as thought, the diff has ceased! :'( The wheels still turn (in opposite directions) so the planetary gears are still working that leaves the input shaft to the diff itself. New referb' kit on order, in the mean time I've got to get the back axle out.
8)
Hope all goes well Bri. It will be nice to see the car on the road after all your hard work.
Did you setup the diff yourself Bri or was it already built up? I had a nightmare on my Locost sorting out the backlash without the necessary equipment. I simply set it for slight binding and then backed off until there was a couple of mm of play. Seemed to work OK. If it was already setup, then I wonder what seized and why?
Hope you get it sorted mate ;)
Keep us informed.
Nope, I just stuck the axle in from off the donor, it's always had a slight weep of oil from the gasket and over time it had probably just got to low. never checked it :-[
Stripping and rebuilding the diff' is gonna be another learning curve and maybe asking lots of Q's later.
Spent this morning undoing everything attached to the axle ready for removal. Just hope it comes out ok. ::)
8)
Rear axle stripped down now and the diff removed. Took it down to Gloucester Road Gearboxes yesterday with a new set of bearings (strip and rebuild £100+vat) but told me the crown and pinion gears were also worn :'(
So I've ordered a new set off of Ebay and will get it done in the new year. Have also found a little welding in a very awkward place that needs to be redone as well just to add to my annoyance >:(
8)
QuoteHave also found a little welding in a very awkward place that needs to be redone as well just to add to my annoyance
Chuck a towel in bucket of water when doing those -you never know when something is going to catch fire. :o
Good luck Bri.
Awesome thread. Just about ready to look at putting my car into the IVA process myself. Look forward to a list as short as yours for re test. Do you have any more pics or details about your seatbelt mounts? Nice work and a late congratulations.
I'll take some pic's of the seatbelt mounts over the weekend for you. ;)
8)
Found a couple of pictures of my Locost build that may help. The plates were 3mm steel welded at all contact points and an M12 nut welded to the rear. The ones in the roll hoop were about 50mm long 2mm seamless running through the hoop and fully welded top and bottom. I know the welding won't win prizes, but it was very solid I can assure you :)
Found it rather sad looking at the old pictures, I need to build something :(
(http://s4.postimg.org/i36zehjqx/Inboard_Seatbelt_Mounts.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/i36zehjqx/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/w6y9951kp/Outboard_Seatbelt_Mount.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/w6y9951kp/)
(http://s4.postimg.org/84hfe9kxl/Rear_Seat_Belt_Mount.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/84hfe9kxl/)
Thanks Both.
Did these pass a curent iva inspection yella belly?
Here are my seatbelt mounts.
This is the top one on the roll bar. Its a tube welded through the roll bar at both ends.
(http://s29.postimg.org/6ih0iawrn/20150124_134636_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6ih0iawrn/)
This is the lower outside one, this also doubles up as part of the rear suspension
(http://s13.postimg.org/fsc4uxhjn/20150124_134649_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/fsc4uxhjn/)
And this is about the best view I can get of the one on the propshaft tunnel lower bracket
(http://s24.postimg.org/mf8wcjkip/20150124_134714_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/mf8wcjkip/)
All lower ones are 3mm steal and have nyloc's on and yes they passed the IVA, though the thickness of the steal used was questioned on the first test but proved to be correct on the re-test
8)
Quote from: Swampy on 24, January, 2015, 08:49:17 AM
Thanks Both.
Did these pass a curent iva inspection yella belly?
Yep, failed first time on four minor and one issue with the brakes locking the rear wheels before the front, but nothing to do with the seat belts.
I got my diff back today and they even delivered it back to me (the guy that did the work lives just down the road ;) so dropped it off on his way home ;D)
New crown wheel, pinion and bearings.
Can't wait to get back up in the garage to start putting it all back together.
(http://s29.postimg.org/jnqjuqqur/20150306_230453.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jnqjuqqur/)
(http://s29.postimg.org/gi5y4j88j/20150306_230511.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gi5y4j88j/)
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Hand a flag on it "no oil" and put another one on the steering wheel for luck!
Ian
With the diff put back in and the axle in place, I refilled with oil only to find the next day a puddle of oil the size of a dinner plate on the floor, turns out a pinprick hole in the rear diff cover. Repaired this with some fuel tank repair putty then some thick engine enamel and then some Hammerite.
Now with it all rebuilt, it's ready for the better weather when it comes.
(http://s21.postimg.org/6lkna0qn7/20150314_140437_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6lkna0qn7/)
And here's a little video of the whole build from start to finish
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Wb9lsiwQuY&feature=youtu.be
8)
Well done mate. 8)
It must have been the last visit to Queens Square that got you going again. Well done Bri', I'm just a bit jealous. :)
Good job Bri,
Longer than a Norwegian Saga but you got there - 11 out of 10 for perseverance!
Regards
Ian
Nice one Bri! I had a similar issue with the McSorley, when I had it in bits before the build, I checked some suspicious looking marks and shining a torch in there showed lots of pin-prick holes! :o I used JB Weld (aptly named I thought :D) and painted it with Hammerite and last I heard it was still holding true (unless anyone has heard different?)
Took Dusty out for a spin today, just a few miles and a little traffic, looks like I've some cooling issues to sort out even with the fan on it was getting towards the wrong end of the temp gauge. Looks like I've not got enough openings for the air to go, so I'm going to cut some vents in the underside panels in the engine bay.
Other than that Dusty is going great and really happy with how well it goes with such a small engine. :P
8)
I had similar issues in the warm weather although Ratbag would behave ok below 55mph, at 70 or above it started it's kettle impressions. Losing the thermostat didn't help at all, but a larger bottom hose did help,
What made a big difference were the vents above the exhaust manifold. I may cut vents in the sides too.
The problem is really getting rid of the hot air out of the engine compartment, the tunnel just doesn't pass it out quick enough.
Hi Brian
Rather than push Hot air downhill, try some vents in the bonnet top or at the back of the bonnet sides then natural ventilation will do most of the work, especially when going slow or stopped.
Even better copy the Westfield ducted Rad layout. Colin and Ian both have them I think.
I recognize that test route in the build vid.... 4 years ago!
Your welcome to take some pictures & measurements on your way home from work mate. :)
Hope your referring to your westie :o
Actually got this week off so plenty of time to play with the car. ;D But may have a look another time. ;)
8)
I'm not shy so choice is yours mate. :P :P
(http://s10.postimg.org/9a8bibmgl/scared.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/9a8bibmgl/)
Here's my first go at a solution, I cut slots in the floor of the engine by then twisted the metal to form the vents, should give a fair bit of extra flow through the bay. ::)
(http://s14.postimg.org/e6xov0lfh/20150326_131820.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/e6xov0lfh/)
(http://s3.postimg.org/j3d6bgzsf/20150326_131843.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/j3d6bgzsf/)
(http://s8.postimg.org/t8uy0aivl/20150326_134858.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/t8uy0aivl/)
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Well finally got around to trying a different Temp gauge in the Locost, I borrowed the one from my Bulldog ::). Took it out for a run up the ring road and it never went above halfway, around 70degress. Result. :P Now I just need to find a set of Smith gauges that match. Any Auto jumbles coming up soon? (or any spare in the back of anyone's garage ;))
(http://s4.postimg.org/pk7un9eo9/20150718_180744_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/pk7un9eo9/)
8)
70 degrees!! :o :o, mine runs at 85+ degrees travelling normally. ::)
A matched set will probably give you a higher reading I would say Bri.
The ideal running temperature is around 86 degrees. Too hot and it will tend to pink (or boil) and too cold it will run under-power due to slower combustion. I can offer you an infra-red thermometer to measure the head temperature when warm and the gauge should indicate that same as the actual temperature.
Regards
Ian
Quote from: Iancider on 20, July, 2015, 11:16:21 PM
The ideal running temperature is around 86 degrees. Too hot and it will tend to pink (or boil) and too cold it will run under-power due to slower combustion. I can offer you an infra-red thermometer to measure the head temperature when warm and the gauge should indicate that same as the actual temperature.
Regards
Ian
Blimey Ian, never mind 'super-hero member' I think they should make a new category for you 'super-helpful-guru member' !!!!!! (and no I am not being facetious, I am serious, your knowledge base is incredible!)
Quote from: Iancider on 20, July, 2015, 11:16:21 PM
The ideal running temperature is around 86 degrees. Too hot and it will tend to pink (or boil) and too cold it will run under-power due to slower combustion. I can offer you an infra-red thermometer to measure the head temperature when warm and the gauge should indicate that same as the actual temperature.
Regards
Ian
While were on the subject of temperature, is it a problem if it rises to 100 degrees when the car is being hammered or at a steady "high speed" Ian? ::) (sorry to borrow your thread Bri.) ;)
The reading of 70 ish degrees was just a quick run up the ring road and back again plus I had the rad fan on through habit.
Just for my own peace of mind I do like to run my cars more on the cooler side to give a bit more safety net before boiling.
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Ian is dead right about there being an 'optimum' running temp for engines, they are not designed to run too cool, or too hot, but 'just right' Goldilocks!
I am always tempted to manually override my fan and have it on but I don't cos it keeps the engine too cool. I always put it on for my mile or two cool down after a blat though to be kind to the old girl.
Water only boils at 100 degrees C at standard atmospheric pressure anyway, with antifreeze in it should not boil until higher than that and as the system will have pressure in it, it will be higher yet again so if yr engine boils you have a BAD problem with yr engine and/or cooling issues, 'cos it means it's way above 100 degrees!
If I've got any of this wrong I'm sure Ian will put me straight (it's been a while since I was at college!!)
I think maybe Ian (creep, creep) should bring his infra-red thermometer along one day so we can all check our in-car temp gauges are accurate see if we are running at 'optimum' engine temp. What do you reckon Ian, £5 a go??? lol!! :D
You can buy one for a tenner!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060778.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=infra-red+thermometer&_sacat=0
Bloody hell! I thought they'd be an arm and a leg!!
Your (ok, my) money making plan has been rumbled Ian!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Got mine for £8 off an app called Geek. ;D Lots of stuff on there direct from the far east ;) takes a little while to come through but does arrive eventually. Lol
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Checking the temp with an ir thermometer I think is a good idea in general, the guy who built the v-storm calibrated it to over read by 10 degrees, which masked part of my original problem. With it recalibrated it runs just over the 68 degrees marked on the thermostat on a cold day.
The ir thermometer is also good for checking you have an even temp across your tyres to determine the best pressure
QuoteThe ir thermometer is also good for checking you have an even temp across your tyres to determine the best pressure
And Camber on track - Equal outside and centre + 5deg C on the inside.
Also on the exhaust manifold for correct running/carb tuning.
Finally got around to repairing the front wing bracket, that snapped when Anna was bringing the car back from the Queens Sq meet in September!
Ordered up some 10mm solid bar, removed the snapped piece and replaced it with 2 bars side by side and welded together. Feels a lot stronger now.
(http://s15.postimg.org/xbhiqdgon/20160221_131346_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xbhiqdgon/)
bolted back in place. Just the wing indicator to sort out.
(http://s23.postimg.org/g3gryo61j/20160222_170629_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/g3gryo61j/)
Then it's just the rear wing to refit and the fuel tank to repair with the POR-15 kit and Dusty should be back on the road. ::)
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Nice work Bri. Was starting to wonder where you've been!
Nice one mate. :D
Still keeping busy then Bri 8)
Quote from: sanzomat on 22, February, 2016, 09:55:26 PM
Nice work Bri. Was starting to wonder where you've been!
Snowed under with car jobs. Mines been a bit of a pig most the winter with running problems (think it's sorted now). Anna's car the Locost and even the Half a dog trailer need work and what with al this damp pants weather I've very unexcited about going up the garage to do any of the work. :-[
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