GTM Daily Commute

[sanzomat]

For the last week or so I've been trying out my GTM on the daily commute from Yate to central Bristol. We've ordered a new car for my missus and put her old one up for sale thinking it would take ages to find a buyer. Rather typically we sold it straight away for nearly twice the trade in price (result!) but that does mean on days my wife needs a car I'm using the GTM as a means of transport rather than the toy it is supposed to be. (she won't drive the GTM). So far it seems that taking the Spyder out seems to influence the weather and it works better than any rain dance. I'll have to rent it out to drought stricken African countries. I'm pleased to say that it has passed this enforced weatherproofing testing with flying colours and not a drop has made it through the hood. The wiper linkage did break though but luckily it was the passenger side that stopped moving.
I was a little worried about the traffic jams and potential for overheating but as long as I keep an eye on the temp guage and manually turn on the fan overide switch when it gets to about 100 it seems to drop back down to 85-90 and stay there (for some reason the fan only cuts in automatically right at the top of the red zone, about 115 degrees if linear and I'm not comfortable with that). So, so far (touch wood - why am I writing this???) the car is proving to be a great little commuting tool. I'm even finding people let me pull out and give me a smile which is most uncommon behaviour in the rush hour!

[benchmark51]

Know what you mean. I get loads more 'two fingers' in the Tranny than in  Ratbag.

[Moleman]

That is good to hear. You do get a better response in a kit car than normal one's. 

[Iancider]

Sanzomat,

You can get temperature senders in different settings to activate cooler - if that helps.  Also chanting my normal mantra - Evans Waterless coolant solves many problems.  This stuff does boil until 180 degrees is 100% antifreeze and reduced corrosion to zero.  As there is no water there is no boiling and no pressure any more - eg no explosive surprises in traffic.  Also just before water boils it micro-boils in the head and that stops it taking as much heat away - that is why it all goes so wrong so quickly.  I am now able to watch mine top at 125 degrees in traffic and not care any more but it is better cooled now so it is rare. 

If you use it, you need to drain the water then use a purging solution to hygroscopically extract the last drops.  You should be able to do the whole thing for about £70 but it will last the life of the car. And that is about the same cost as anti-freeze in the same period.  You will also save water pump and pipe failures where they used to be under pressure.  Overall it is a saving.

Regards
Ian

[sanzomat]

Sanzomat,

You can get temperature senders in different settings to activate cooler - if that helps.  Also chanting my normal mantra - Evans Waterless coolant solves many problems.  This stuff does boil until 180 degrees is 100% antifreeze and reduced corrosion to zero.  As there is no water there is no boiling and no pressure any more - eg no explosive surprises in traffic.  Also just before water boils it micro-boils in the head and that stops it taking as much heat away - that is why it all goes so wrong so quickly.  I am now able to watch mine top at 125 degrees in traffic and not care any more but it is better cooled now so it is rare. 

If you use it, you need to drain the water then use a purging solution to hygroscopically extract the last drops.  You should be able to do the whole thing for about £70 but it will last the life of the car. And that is about the same cost as anti-freeze in the same period.  You will also save water pump and pipe failures where they used to be under pressure.  Overall it is a saving.

Regards
Ian

Hi Ian, I've looked into this after our chat at the Redhill breakfast meet. I am considering waterless as part of my engine upgrade (see other threads started tonight!) but I'll probably start off with traditional coolant whilst it all beds in and I find the leaks. Also, with a mid engine/front rad set up the long pipe runs mean that the total volume of coolant is more so would need about 8 litres (so really 2x 5l) so double the cost...