illumination kit...realiable?

[danwilko]

im still trying to get her started 

ive changed the plugs, leads, rotor arm and distributor cap and seems it still wont start...

now flushed out all fuel, just in case and will put in super unleaded with lead mixture just to help...but seems theres a problem.

should the rotor arm in the distributor cap have a resistance across the middle and end contact or should it be a path (when i use a multi meter, should it show ohms or should it 'beep' on continuity?) as the old rotor was open circuit but seems the new one also seems to be open circuit and have a high resistance. but as the post states i have an illumination kit installed so no points and could this be effecting it? as seems at the minute i have no spark.

next thing to change is the ignition coil just to make sure but if anyone has knowledge of these kits, i just wont to be abale to illiminate it from the problem.

[paintman]

If its got a condensor try changing that or testing it......might help.

['The Gaffer']

Do you literately have no spark? ie plug removed and tested against earth when turning engine over?

[danwilko]

im going to have a bit more of a play tomorrow night as just got back from a weekend away. will try a better earth as well......will let you know what happens

[Hairy Santa]

they used to use them on the ambulances I worked on years ago, gave a lot of probems as I remember, think most were changed back to good old points which work pretty well on a 4 cyl engine up to around the 7000rpm mark

[danwilko]

right...
had no spark at plugs or coil so started investigating illumination kit and seems there was no volts so started following the loom, thought it could have been the after market immobiliser but that was working fine.....


then...

found a 2 tiny switchs under the steering coloum, one did the fog light and one was some how connected to the loom but was faulty, changed the switch and we had power. I think even the previous owner might not have known about it.

anyway, poured some fuel into the carbs and it started but not ran for long as the webber wasnt allowing any more fuel. took that apart and cleaned it, tried again had a flash of flame and then tried again and its running  im a happy boy now and it sounded fine....couldnt run it for long without the core pligs for the cooling but at least i know i can put it back in once its had a good service

got a good photo of me with loads of smoke every where because the manifold seemed to be burning off loads of cob webs and spiders

['The Gaffer']

Sounds like you have solved the problem, switch was probably a home made attempt at an immobiliser.

Post up your pics

[danwilko]

got a vid of it running, but is there a way to do it on here? only got it on my camera

['The Gaffer']

got a vid of it running, but is there a way to do it on here? only got it on my camera

If you have a YouTube account and upload your video there, all you have to do then is post the YouTube link to your vid here in a post and it will magically play

[peterw]

Going back to my college days many many moons ago !!!!!, a resistance acros the rotor arm should not make too much difference as although there is very high voltage the current drawn acros the plug gap is very low . As you are drawing very low current on the secondary side of the coil the resistance shouldn't make any difference. In fact I'm sure that resistance HT leads used to be fitted to help with interferance suppresion. (but don't quote me in it)
Pete

[danwilko]

no you tube account...but i got the pic my mate took now, im looking happy, but not sure im photogenic 




and tonight starts the engine removal...i got 9 hours to myself as other half is off to watch dirty dancing at hippodrom with friends and got to pick her up

ill get some pics.
thinking to remove it with the gearbox still connected as only then have to unbolt driveshaft instead of trying to get space to pull out of gearbox...but lets see what happens

['The Gaffer']

Nice atmospheric pic. I would have though engine and gearbox together would be very heavy!!

[danwilko]

left the gearbox in, was having some real trouble with the fixing points as i couldn't lift it high enough to clear them so that i could slid it off the gearbox.

had to disconnect them from the engine, bit of a wiggle here, a poke there and it was ogg 

ill stick up some pics tomorrow, now come sthe expensive time.
new clutch, exhaust, radiator, water and fuel hoses and then ill probably do the head gasket, alternator belt and water pump on the engine just for good measure

['The Gaffer']

Best time to do it when the engines out, will be worth it in the end