xflow/type 9 clutch

[benchmark51]

One for the collective knowledge base

I have a xflow with a 190mm clutch plate and I want to use a type 9 gearbox.
Problem is the 23 spline first motion shaft doesn't fit the clutch plate.

I also have a 215mm clutch that fits the gearbox splines, but not the xflow flywheel.
The 215mm flywheel doesn't have the recess to fit the xflow crankshaft.

So which clutch kit will fit between the xflow and type 9 box?

[Iancider]

Hi Dave,

That hurt my head a bit but I think this thread might help:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=65479

This is a type 9 conversion on an Escort tutorial:
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103512

This one suggests you haven't seen the worst of it yet due to starter motor incompatibility - See Bortaf in this thread:

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/101024

Have you considered for all of this expense that you could change the engine to a 2 litre new Zetec for £900 plus ECU or use a compatible Pinto without ECU at possibly as little as £150?  Or maybe a scrapper with low milage Zetec and Ford ECU/engine loom?

Or finally bolt it all back together and say Bummer that was a bad idea for just one gear?!?!

[benchmark51]

Thanks Ian, there is plenty to read in your threads!

I had the intention of fitting the type 9 merely to make longer trips a bit more comfortable and maybe more affordable. Although the fuel saving isn't as important as losing th 4th gear scream on motorways.

I have a 205 pinto engine, short sump, stainless 4 into 1 and twin 40 dhla's, clutch and flywheel, all brackets most other bits already. Also a low mileage 1600 zetec that is running well in my escort. It's just that with events coming up thick and fast, I didn't really want to get stuck into anything 'epic' right now.

My idea was to leave the xflow where it is, bolt on the type 9, do the mounting mods as necc' and leave it like that for now. Easy peasey lemon squeezy. The work I do now will have to be done whatever engine I use. An engine change is going to involve engine mount mods as well as other stuff, like bonnet mods ect.

The only sticking point at the mo' is the clutch centre plate, has to fit 1", 23 spline shaft and be 190mm in diameter.

[Bulldog Bri]

I've fitted one to my 1100 xflow by only changing the clutch plate think you may have a clutch plate for a 2ltr pinto rather than the 1600

[benchmark51]

Hi Brian,

Yes, what I need to do is use the original xflow flywheel and cover, change the plate to a 190mm with 23 splines and change the release bearing to fit the larger shaft. Trouble now is to find such a clutch plate. I dont really want buy a complete kit if poss' as I have a newish cover and a new bearing already.

[chris61]

is it a pinto clutch plate your needing? got one here I think

[benchmark51]

Hi Chris, yes it is a pinto plate but an early one. Capri, Cortina, Sierra 1972 - 1985.
190mm(7.5") diameter with 23 splines. As said I have the cover and bearing, just can't
find the centre plate. Don't want to fork out £70+ for a kit  .

Would rather shelve the car till I have completed the pinto engine and forget the xflow.

[chris61]

i'll check tomorrow and give you a bell mate

[benchmark51]

Hi Brian,

Yes, what I need to do is use the original xflow flywheel and cover, change the plate to a 190mm with 23 splines and change the release bearing to fit the larger shaft. Trouble now is to find such a clutch plate. I dont really want buy a complete kit if poss' as I have a newish cover and a new bearing already.

Ok, done all that by getting a complete clutch kit. Plate fits the shaft and is 190mm so fits the xflow flywheel.
Now what I have is it all fits together, but have no movement on the clutch fork. The bearing is in contact with the cover and the fork is in the most rearward position, but no freeplay at all?


I'm starting to suspect either the gearbox or bell housing are not compatible



The clutch fork is from a sierra, this is it. Any ideas? Before I just weigh the bl***y thing in!

[Iancider]

Dave,

Symathy - how deep these things become!

No specific knowledge here to offer but it suggests to me that the fork is not seated properly.  If the anti-rotation locating tangs and not sitting in their slots in the thrust bearing or if the bearing is incompatible, a few millimeters misalignment at the bearing would manifiy to a few centirmeters at the end of the arm.  So it could just be that the tangs are sitting on top of the bearing and not in the slots.

I can offer help possibly.  I have an inspection video camera that you could use to look inside via the fork aerture and you would be able to "see" the problem.  Even if not that, I would guess it would be fairly simple to fabricate a custom arm to do the job - they all look like pretty simple items.

Regards
Ian

[benchmark51]

Found it!
You were close Ian, but the bearing and the fork hadn't moved at all and were still in position when I took the engine out again.

However I used the new kit I bought for it and there was the culprit. The release bearing was too tall!
Only by a small amount but enough to see off the free play completely.

Changed the bearing and refitted the engine and all's well




Would have noticed, but had nothing to compare it with at the time.

[Iancider]

Yehaaaah!

Good Result   -   11 out of 10 for effort!