Updating my McCoy

[robp]

Wow. Lots of hard graft there!

Really enjoying reading this thread.

... into work tomorrow to ask my welder for the details of the paint stripping spray he has recently has had good results from...... No more messing with nitromors...

I would be very interested to know what he recommends too.  I have been disappointed with modern paint strippers.

[pompeyal]

This is the stuff, only found 2 suppliers in the UK and here is the cheepest, I am going to try it tomorrow to see if affects fibreglass and I will update the diary

VHT SP575 STRIP FAST PAINT REMOVER

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VHT-SP575-STRIP-FAST-PAINT-REMOVER-/111399103106?hash=item19efe76a82

[benchmark51]

Says 'metal only' in the listing. Not sure I would trust it on fibreglass.

[sanzomat]

Really feel for you after all that work getting the surface perfect. I hope you can salvage something from it...

[pompeyal]

Says 'metal only' in the listing. Not sure I would trust it on fibreglass.

And wood, lol but my mate still has some so I will try before I buy..

[pompeyal]

Really feel for you after all that work getting the surface perfect. I hope you can salvage something from it...

Thanks, nothing that can't be sorted I'm sure, just more work and time....

[Iancider]

I fear the problem was in using MDF.  It is Medium Density Fibreboard and very sensitive to moisture.  There is a waterproof grade that is normally green and wont expand from moisture and does not de-laminate.  Ironically I made an archway once by steam bending MDF!

Removing the pant with paint stripper would be really risky and might marr the surface if not completely dissolve it.  As there should be wax under it you might be able to melt that with a gentle waft of a heat-gun and peeling it away.

If it is not dimensionally critical you could also make a new surface on the inside via filler or primer and rubbing down but it is a lot harder in the female than the male.

I also wonder if the wax was thick enough.  Some recommend using MacGuires and building it in several layers, allowing it to set each time.  Sorry it went wrong.

Ian

[pompeyal]

I fear the problem was in using MDF.  It is Medium Density Fibreboard and very sensitive to moisture.  There is a waterproof grade that is normally green and wont expand from moisture and does not de-laminate.  Ironically I made an archway once by steam bending MDF!

Removing the pant with paint stripper would be really risky and might marr the surface if not completely dissolve it.  As there should be wax under it you might be able to melt that with a gentle waft of a heat-gun and peeling it away.

If it is not dimensionally critical you could also make a new surface on the inside via filler or primer and rubbing down but it is a lot harder in the female than the male.

I also wonder if the wax was thick enough.  Some recommend using MacGuires and building it in several layers, allowing it to set each time.  Sorry it went wrong.

Ian

Hi Ian. I dont think it was because of the MDF as this had several coats of primer and paint on it, the surface already has some scratching on due to the removal of the MDF but I will sort that out by rubbing it back, The release agent I had used before but not over paint so I think that was the main problem, never mind can't cry about it just need to sort it...

['The Gaffer']

What a nightmare!!

[CC Cyclone]

This is brilliant, absolutely brilliant.

I have just stumbled across your build and have only got to page 3 so far, but will read in full this evening. I need to pick your brains about fibreglassing some time too.

[Moleman]

I think Ian may be right as Primer paint wont seal the mdf enough, we use a sealer first & you will be surprised how much gets soaked up by the mdf which does seal it nicely. We then use a two part epoxy primer paint that really seals it lovely & with some wet & dry gives a brilliantly smooth surface finish. I can give you the make of the paint if you wish. 

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Right tried out a few things tonight just to see how it went, VHT Strip Fast certainly lifts the paint into a gooey mess and I didn't leave it on long then scraped it of quickly, this seems to not have attacked the glass underneath, mind you it wasn't on long. Cleaned back with spray gun cleaner,  "Neogene", can't leave that on to long either, that will attack the glass, next put down some Nitromors and a spray of VHT Strip Fast over the top, left for a minute or two then with a soft brush rubbed it around then scraped of the mess, that seemed to work as well so I think about ten hours of stripping and sanding back I may have a workable mould, I will just have to see....

[pompeyal]

I think Ian may be right as Primer paint wont seal the mdf enough, we use a sealer first & you will be surprised how much gets soaked up by the mdf which does seal it nicely. We then use a two part epoxy primer paint that really seals it lovely & with some wet & dry gives a brilliantly smooth surface finish. I can give you the make of the paint if you wish. 

Thanks Moleman, I don't think I will go that way if there should be a next time but as I am no fibreglass guru I have made a costly error in time but hey ho if you don't try you don't find out.

[pompeyal]

This is brilliant, absolutely brilliant.

I have just stumbled across your build and have only got to page 3 so far, but will read in full this evening. I need to pick your brains about fibreglassing some time too.

Thanks and enjoy the read, I am not sure I will be able to give the answers you want on fibreglass though, ask anyway... 

[scorhill.89]

Ive just read this in full and wow the standards are amazing! Youve clearly put alot of thought and effort into it! il be checking in for the updates.
I may also need some advice on using gel coat in the near future

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Tried out this stuff, worked a treat on this fresh paint but not sure how it would cope with old car paint finishes, will be trying that out later..



I went round covering 300mm squares and leaving for an hour



I continued this until I had removed the majority of the paint, I didn't try to do too much at a time because it does create quite a mess





I started sanding back the imperfections but forgot to take a picture, shall do that later, I am sure with a bit I work I can recover the mould so I though I would reinforce the edges by bonding on a flange... First I covered around the bonnet opening with cling film and placed the mould over...





Then I cut some fibreglass roving woven tape into lengths and positioned them around the mould...



Then mixed up some resin and applied it to the tape





I will now leave that until it starts to set off then cut some strips of fibreglass mat and do the same.

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Well the strips of glass have been added and then set with resin, once set I will trim around the flange and get on with polishing back the inside of the mould





Removed the mould from the car and now you can see that I have some polishing to do along with some minor repairs,,

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Done a few bits during the week for the bonnet, made a pair of bonnet hinges with brackets and a latch pin and bracket, just need to get the bonnet sorted out......

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Well it's been a while and a slight stall on the project but I am now back on line, I started assessing the damage to the mould and got ready for the repairs, the main areas for concern were the damaged edges but started filling the imperfections with filler putty





















Before going too far I had to pay a visit to my resin supplier and had a chat about what I had done so far and he warned me against using filler because there would be a good chance the gel coat would stick to it and recommended that I should use gel coat for the repairs, rub that back and then flat and wax at least five coats, then apply PVA,.... Hmm more work then so back home and start again..



First things then, a fresh coat of gel coat




Then built a dam around the edges with plasticine where they had been damaged and in filled with gel coat





After that removed the dams and cleaned, now to rub it all back flat...



Then 6 coats of wax, one for luck...



Then the PVA application..





And now I have committed to the bonnet, first coat of gel...everything has now been suitably crossed and in hope all goes well

[sanzomat]

Ahh, you progress has returned to mere mortal pace now! Have to admire your perseverance. Hope it comes out of the mold properly this time.

[pompeyal]

Thanks sanzomat, I will be going to the mad house if this sticks, if it does I think I will get the car finished apart from the bonnet then wrap it over with cling film and spray over that.... I am sure it will fool the MOT man...

[Moleman]

Good luck, I hope it goes well this time. 

[pompeyal]

Good luck, I hope it goes well this time. 

Thanks and so do I ....

['The Gaffer']

Hopefully perseverance will pay off

[pompeyal]

Hopefully perseverance will pay off

You bet, second coat of gel applied, no turning back now...

[Gary RH7]

Its going to be perfect this time. Take a video of the action

[pompeyal]

Its going to be perfect this time. Take a video of the action

I don't know about that...lol, If it comes out the mould I will still have some rubbing back I am sure, still got my fingers crossed though...

[Iancider]

After the initial pace, I guess you are playing this long to raise the tension!  How cool is that!

Good luck!

Ian

[CC Cyclone]

You have my sympathies. I have a big package from ec fibreglass with all the component parts in, that has been sat in my hallway for a week. Working up to trying to combine them into
Something useable.. keep us updated I am using this thread as inspiration.

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Second coat of gel and a run of roving woven applied





Cut out the glass mat for the rear of the bonnet, laid it on the applied the resin





Left that to set for a few hours, cut out a sheet of mat for the front of the bonnet and applied resin...





Cut out and laid on some edge reinforcement mat and added doublers for the bonnet hinge positions, the latch bracket and the trailing corners



And finally applied resin, now to let that little lot set off nice and hard then onto positioning and bonding on the hinge and latch brackets.

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Marked out position for the latch pin interface plate and bonded into place using epoxy resin and coated top surface...





Positioned the hinges onto the car and measured the distance between the holes...







Placed hinge interface plates into position, measuring from the centre of the bonnet and checked hole positions, then marked their positions onto the bonnet..



Applied the epoxy to each of the interface plates and bonded into place checking between the stud centres and applying the epoxy to the top of the plates..





Checked the fit of the latch pin and now wait for the adhesive to cure.

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Right here goes,  went around the edges using a piece of plate and a pair of mole grips to break any over bond...



After a bit of struggling hey presto its out, what a relief, no damage to the bonnet and a small amount to the mould.....



Trial fit of the aperture and its looking good, I now need to clean up the edges until the fit is good then back into the mould to complete the strengthening and final mat later...

[damouk]

That's a lot of hard work there, I'm surprised you didn't go with your own design for the bonnet duct, you have pretty much re-designed the front end of the car as it is 

[CC Cyclone]

Big thumbs up.

[sanzomat]

Phew - I can breath now, I've been holding my breath for days!!!!

[Moleman]

Good to hear. 

[pompeyal]

Thanks guy's it had me worried for a while, as far as the bonnet scoop goes it will be bolted on so if I want to change it at a later time it will be no big deal, I really need to get the bodywork finished so I can get back to the wiring and the rest of it, I would liked to have taken it to the jap fest at Silverstone this year and have it next to my son's Rx-7which will be on show but that won't be happening, maybe another year when its had some track time under its belt.

[Iancider]

Proper job!

Ian

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Lined the mould with cling film and  after cleaning the bonnet edge placed it back into the mould for finishing touches.



Doubled up some fibreglass sealing ribbon and bonded it around the bonnet, this will then be soaked in resin and glassed over







Next the final layers of glass mat...

[pompeyal]

Bonnet continued

Shrunk on some heat shrink over fixings to avoid contamination when applying resin





Applied resin to reinforcing ribbon..



Next to lay up the final layer of mat and seal all the edges with gel coat...