The Locost7

[Bulldog Bri]

Think I'll decorate the garage first

[Iancider]

Brian,

Sympathy - heres a simple diagram for hazard and indicator wiring using your relay - only 3 terminals will be used out of 4.  The hazard switch is just a double pole switch that connects the two circuits together so that both sides flash instead of one or the other.  Note that on this diagram the green and the black on the relay are show the wrong way round! Green is normally the switched ignition 12V supply and Black is earth or chassis but the pin connections are correct and the labelling is right. 

With indicators they are permanently connected to earth and the relayy is connected to the ignition live.  So when a switch connection is made to the earthed bulb it will flash the relay.  As the hazard switch works and the indicator switch doesn't - it proves the relay works, the bulbs are okay and their earths.  So all that is left is the common wire from 49a to the turn switch OR both the left and right signal wires are disconnected OR the switch is broken.  The latter may be safely proved by just shorting between the common wire from 49a and each of the two left/right wires in turn.  If that works it proves the switch has had it.  If neither works then there is only the common wire left.



Finally colour codes are variable so you may have to prove the wiring with a continuity tester or a meter.

Fuel gauge - more current from the sender = lower fuel indication.  If you are getting an empty reading then too much current is passing to the gauge and it indicaes a problem with the sender resistor being failed to low resistance or you have a full battery voltage being applied to the gauge and bypassing the float resistor. I am presuming your sender and gauge are matched or you may have a sender that is sending too low a reistance for your particular guage  You need to check the make and model of each and look up the spec.  If you have a full tank you can maesure the full resistance of your sender in ohms - check that is the right value for your gauge.  PM me if you can't crack - I am very willing to help if I can.

Regards
Ian

[fletch_306]

Ian thank you for the diagram I think that will help me as well as I have had indicators doing funny things as well.

[Bulldog Bri]

Thanks Ian, The fuel sender is in an old Triumph Spitfire tank (and will be Damn hard to get to) the spare sender was out of a Marina tank and they used old Smiths gauges with 2 terminals on the back, the gauge I have now has 3 terminals. (so did the spare gauge I was using). So this could be my problem.

[Iancider]

Hi Brian,

This is a knotty problem.  Early senders used higher current to indicate empty and later sender higher current to indicate Full.  Basically the sender and gauge have to be paired - there is no consistent standard out there.  Some work 10-69 ohms reverse and some 100-300 ohms forward to be utterly incompatible.  At least you have two choices - match the gauge to the sender or the sender to the gauge.  On three terminal gauges the third terminal is earth, B is Battery and T is Tank (sender).

I found this article on early senders using a three terminal gauge http://www.austin7.org/Technical%20Articles/Fuel%20Gauge%20Working/ but it is best to work with modern gauges and senders if you can.

Best solution buy both new as a matched pair - sorry.

[YellaBelly]

Bri,

My Locost used a Spitfire fuel tank and sender with the guage from somewhere else (can't remember where). Maybe I was lucky, but after some 'faffing' I got it fairly accurate.

JB

[Bulldog Bri]

As we've come to expect, Ian you a mine of  knowledge! . I bought the set of gauges as they had very rounded bezels for IVA (and they were cheap) never crossed my mind that they had changed how to wire the things up, wondering if I can get a set of Smith gauges and switch the innards, Or even just fit the new bezels on them. Lol

All I wanted was a set that matched and that's hard with Smith stuff

[Bulldog Bri]

A little disappointed this morning, the new Escort Mk2 Flasher unit arrived and it's giving me the same as before, just hazards so something is amiss with the wires, gulp!



Sorted not quite sure what it was but they now WORK! everybody stand down, panic over. Lol.

[Moleman]

Glad to hear it's working at last mate. 

[Iancider]

That'll be a loose connection then - ferret around in there long enough and you'll bump it back in place.  It won't fail again until you need to use them of course!

[Lucky Ed]

Nice one Bri - now you can get back to some proper flashing

[Pilgrim Anna]

He does enough of that at home! LOL

[garry h]

Naughtie boy 

[Bulldog Bri]

 

[Moleman]

Fair play Bri. That makes to of us. 

[Bulldog Bri]

Have given up on all my old carb's and ordered a brand new one ready set for the Crossflow .

So had a garage clear out and lots of bit's now up on Ebay to cover it (about time I did anyway )

[Moleman]

You will have to give the rest of the engine a clean as those nice new shinny carb's will stand out a mile. 
Hope you get a bidding war on your parts mate. 

[benchmark51]

Have given up on all my old carb's and ordered a brand new one ready set for the Crossflow .

So had a garage clear out and lots of bit's now up on Ebay to cover it (about time I did anyway )

Here's one to try

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weber-Tipo-32-Carburettor-/141296655111?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e5efdb07

[Bulldog Bri]

Thanks but I've already ordered a new one. Anyway, that one is pick up only in Leeds .

[Bulldog Bri]

Shiny bits for Dusty, Yeah I know not as exciting as Pete's shiny V8 bits but it's made the difference for me and my little engine, it now rev's up a treat. Will be cleaning up the old one to sell on now


Just looking for an old Smiths Temp and Oil gauge for the dash

[Moleman]

Glad it's working now mate. Well you don't have so much to polish as Peter then. 

[Pilgrim Anna]

Its really getting close now for IVA  . Well done babe! . And yes I will want to be driving it to Queen Square LOL

[Bulldog Bri]

Its really getting close now for IVA  . Well done babe! . And yes I will want to be driving it to Queen Square LOL

[Iancider]

Anna,

I am confident you will drive to Queens Square and back again - it will be that reliable!

[Pilgrim Anna]

Looking forward to it! If it breaks down we know who to blame!

[Bulldog Bri]

Argh!!!!!!!! Just found a wiring fault on the 7, Rear sidelight goes out when the brake light goes on (How did that happen ) think I've found the problem but it's in a very tight space

[Iancider]

Well that would be Murphy's Law then.  But at least you found it now and that has to be good news.  I dont know about you but I'm getting excited....

Good luck
Ian

[YellaBelly]

Come on Brian, enough already. Stop stalling !!

[Moleman]

I know the feeling mate. I had a to find a faulty wire on a track day which thanks to some good friends & guys from the club we managed to find it over the lunch break & get back out there ready for an afternoon of going around the track. 

[Bulldog Bri]

Ok!

I've fitted DRL's on the car and find the LED's.

Problem.. The LED's keep blowing , They were bought as a 12V set for cars, I've fitted with the appropriate relay that turns them off when the side lights go on, only thing I can think is that I don't think there is a fuse in the circuit would this cause a problem even after the relay?

[Iancider]

Hi Brian,

They shouldn't "blow" in any circumstance.  If they are 3W they will pull 1/4 amp and so a 1 amp fuse would cover both.  If they are 9W each than they will be pulling 1.5 amps and a 5 Amp fuse circuit would be best.  It might be that you have wired you isolator relay incorrectly.  It should should switch the relay when a voltage appears on the parking lights wire.  The supply to the LED positive is always conected and so is the chassis earth.  With the parking lights sensor wire disconnected the DRL's should stay on.  With the Parking lights on, dab the sensor wire on the now powered parking light suply and you should see the DRL go off.  If this simple test does not work then the Relay is likely wroongly wired.  Possibly live and earth are reversed - thast might operate the DRL but would not switch properly.  If you can't crack it give me a call and I will assist.

Ian

[Bulldog Bri]

Just fitted another set of DRL's with a 3A inline fuse this time, hopefully that will go first but really hoping the last set were faulty in some way.

[Pilgrim Anna]

Not long now! Looking forward to being driven in it! You sure know how to sweep me off my feet

[Bulldog Bri]

Well, Ok. Finally got my date for the dreaded IVA

Fri 8th August, 8:00am

Colin is kindly helping get the car down for the test on his trailer, I know I could drive there but just don't want to chance a silly breakdown on the way and miss out. Seeing that we only get back from our hol's at midnight before the test, I'm gonna be a bag of tired nerves on the way over. Lol

[YellaBelly]

GOOD LUCK MATE!!

Fingers crossed for you Bri

[Iancider]

Not only wil you be tired from your holiday but you wont sleep between now and then!

All the best for the day - if any kit car builder desrved it - its you.  And may the sun shine on you on the 9th!

[YellaBelly]

BTW Bri, it isn't as bad as they say......IT'S WORSE!!! only kidding mate, you'll be fine I'm sure

[chris61]

So???

[Moleman]

Well with Bri on his way back from his hols. I have picked up Dusty though I had a few Hiccups with garage doors & car tyres. So hopefully that's all the gremlin's out the way. 

Dusty is now in my garage ready for the trip tomorrow to get his IVA sorted. 

[YellaBelly]

Fingers crossed both