• Welcome to Bristol Kit Car Club and Forum - BKCC.
 

News:

Due to 100's of daily spam registrations, new member applications have been disabled. Sorry.

Main Menu
AIB BKCC Kit Car Insurance
Discounts For Club Members

+-Member Login or Register

Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
 
 
 
Forgot your password?

Handbrake RH sierra based exmo

Started by Richardp, 24, April, 2012, 10:44:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Richardp

Ok I give up.....

How does the handbrake work?

I can't see how it's possible to fit the new cable.

Is there something I'm missing? The handbrake itself is attached to the car, and the cable ends to the beam? That can't be right, surely, since there is some movement? I've figured out that you need to shorten the cable, since I have the parts of the old cable. Do you really need to un thread the inner, then re thread it after, if so how, without destroying the liner?

Maybe there's something I'm missing, but what do I have to do to gain enlightenment? Sacrifice a wommble?


Richardp

I should add, I've checked the Haynes manuals for several fords, nothing in them helps very much.

If I'd known I'd have made something more sensible, before I put the rear suspension back together.

paintman

On my Hood which has a Sierra hand-brake, the lever is forward of the gearstick, actually under the dash mounted on the centre consul.    I think it was done like this to use up the cable, thus keeping it taunt so it works ok.

It works fine for me but the wife struggles to pull it on and off when she is harnessed in......it's ether this or new shortened cables i suppose.

    Tony

Richardp

Thanks, that makes sense. Though the handbrake leaver is rear of the gear stick.

I think what I need to do is invent something. It's a pity I didn't know that before I put the suspension back together. it would have been a lot easier to get at everything.


foggy

#4
 I have a hood, on mine the hand brake is rear of the gear stick, it can be adjusted at the hand brake and underneth where the cables branch off  to each hub, looking at your  pictures I think my hood is a similiar age to yours,the dash is the same,obviously the rear suspension is the same. Have you got a picture of the front? I bought mine ready built, but in the first year of ownership, I took it apart and put it back together again. I am in my third year with it now. You might have seen my results of  the rolling road/tune up. I think I will be looking for a engine next winter. I don't know that much about engines, if you get stuck, I would be happy to come up to yours with mine and you could look at how mine is set up, if that would be any help.

'Mendip Wurzel'

My handbreak is stuck in the passenger foot well, so a lot of flexibility with the location.
Kevin 

Richardp

Quote from: foggy on 25, April, 2012, 09:45:32 PM
I have a hood, on mine the hand brake is rear of the gear stick, it can be adjusted at the hand brake and underneth where the cables branch off  to each hub, looking at your  pictures I think my hood is a similiar age to yours,the dash is the same,obviously the rear suspension is the same. Have you got a picture of the front? I bought mine ready built, but in the first year of ownership, I took it apart and put it back together again. I am in my third year with it now. You might have seen my results of  the rolling road/tune up. I think I will be looking for a engine next winter. I don't know that much about engines, if you get stuck, I would be happy to come up to yours with mine and you could look at how mine is set up, if that would be any help.

Here is a link to all the pictures of the car https://picasaweb.google.com/112145329115294552693/BCCC?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMf6xZiFrYP7Pw&feat=directlink


I bought mine half done, the dash was a wooden thing, with centre console, to start with. Like you I took the whole thing to bits, and  put it back together. Though I've recently started on fixing, painting, and tidying up all the non stainless bits, and have yet to tackle the front suspension (mostly waiting for new parts, before i can start cutting, and welding).

It would be useful to have a look at another handbrake, though it seems they are fairly random, both in location, and construction.

Also right now, I cant get under the car, because there is a miniature lake in the workshop :( though hopefully that will go if the rain holds off.

I'm off work this week, so if you could pop over at some point, that would be fantastic :)

foggy

I think the weather has put  a stop in taking the Hood out this week-end, but I am off Weds to Fri next week, I don't mind coming down then you live  in Weston somewhere? Send me a pm with your mobile No,see if I can come down one of those days and I can  give my car a blast on the motorway.

peterw

O.K. going by your post, are you replacing both inner and outer ? if so the easiest way is to install the cable complete the outer should be the correct length only the inner will be too long. Fit the outer into the back plates and into the chassis mounting holes whilst making sure the inner is correctly in the handbrake linkage, connect one end of the inner on to the link arm in the rear brakes near side or off side, with the outer cable adjusters slackened right off pull the inner through the other backplate thereby taking up all the slack. You can now see how much you have to cut off, then reconnect the nipple and connect to the link arm. You should be able to adjust up any slack left over with the outer cable adjusters.

Pete

Richardp

Quote from: peterw on 09, May, 2012, 09:42:08 PM
, with the outer cable adjusters slackened right off pull the inner through the other backplate thereby taking up all the slack. You can now see how much you have to cut off, then reconnect the nipple and connect to the link arm. You should be able to adjust up any slack left over with the outer cable adjusters.

Pete

That sounds reasonable, but my car wasn't made that way.

I'm thinking about starting again, this time putting a mount for the free end of the outer cables above the propshaft. That way the outer cables wont be too long, and they wont be attached to the beam at the free end. Also that way the cables wont need to be disassembled to go through the mounting holes.

Then as you have said, I can shorten the inner cable, and crimp on a lug.

thanks for the input

Powered by EzPortal
Great value Kit Car insurance. Dont forget to mention the BKCC
Discounted insurance for our members.</a></center>
			</div><!-- #main_content_section -->
		</div><!-- #content_section -->
	</div><!-- #wrapper -->
</div><!-- #footerfix -->
	<div id=