Brake bleeding help requested!

[Grin-a-lot]

I've noticed some/lots of brake fade on track, the fluid is goodness knows how old and the same applies to the pads.

Would anyone be willing and able to help me bleed the system and replace the pads - I've never done it before.

I've bleed the hydraulic brakes on various mountain bikes and am sure the system is similar, it'd just be nice to have some experience to hand for the first effort.  Will pay with beer and/or tasty cake!

[fullpint]

Sound like new pads and fliud is needed first.. I have a bleeding kit which you are welcome to borrow (if it fits). You simply fill the bottle with fliud and the use a spare wheel to keep a constant pressure in the system whilst you open one bleed valve at a time untill fresh fluid is seen.
Where are you located?

[Hairy Santa]

you are  quite welcome to pop over here and do it if you want, might pay you to put pads in first and make sure all the bleed nipples arn't seized by just quickly cracking them open and closed

[fullpint]

you are  quite welcome to pop over here and do it if you want, might pay you to put pads in first and make sure all the bleed nipples arn't seized by just quickly cracking them open and closed

Excellent advise on those nipples 

[Hairy Santa]

you are  quite welcome to pop over here and do it if you want, might pay you to put pads in first and make sure all the bleed nipples arn't seized by just quickly cracking them open and closed

Excellent advise on those nipples 

yes nipples , nipples , nipples  - seem to be on my mind quite a lot nowadays - even think of bleeding brakes sometimes as well 

[Grin-a-lot]

Thanks, i'll have a look into what pads I need; Mintex seem to get good reviews on here.  I'll check me nipples as well, seems like a good way of spending some time...

[Moleman]

You prob know but I use yellow pads in mine as they work good on the road & bloody good on the track. I have had them in all year & have done 5 trackdays & 3000 miles on the road & I think they may even last me next year as there don't seem to be much wear on them.

I got a friend to help me fit mine along with new fluid (Krazyken is a good man to contact for fliud). Check with the type of calipers you have as mine said not to use synthetic fluid due to the fact they had magnesium parts in mine. But definitely spend abit more on the best type you can use if your going to do some more track days next year.

Hope this helps & sorry if it's stuff you already know. 

[Krazyken]

Grin

If its fast road work only then a litre of DOT4 from your local motor factor will be fine.  If you are taking to the track regularly you will definitely need race fluid to handle the prolonged higher temperatures.  Like Moleman I have always usede EBC Yellowstuff pads and EBC race fluid and never had a problem covering over 200 miles on track in a day.

I have stocks of new EBC race fluid which is £10 for a 500ml bottle or £18 for 2.  I would recomend using 1 bottle to flush through and the other bottle to ensure you have all new race fluid in the system.  If you need any fluid please PM me.

[benchmark51]

Brake fade is usually caused by water in the fluid. Brake fluid should be changed regularly because brake fuid will absorb water. Changing the fluid should solve the problem and flushing the system won't hurt. When bleeding the brakes, get as much air out of the system as you can and then put a piece of wood or bar between the brake pedal and seat. This is to keep brake pressure on. I usually leave it like this overnight, the result is absolutely no air present in the system. This is a trick from the 60's, (moggy 1000's ect) that I've used for half a century - still works!

Remember Brake fluid in part used containers still can absorb water especially if not completely sealed. I use part used containers of fluid for cleaning and flushing and always refill systems with new sealed fluid.