Advice on V8 stuff please

[David H]

I'm going to look at a 69 MGB V8 with a 4.5 in it tomorrow for my dad. I'm not particularly looking for advice on the MG itself as he has owned one before, although any advice is very welcome. I'm looking for advice from you V8 peeps out there on what to look for. Part of the ad is as follows

V8 Roadster conversion
15 years ago as a track car but
never raced. Spec includes a 4.5 litre V8 engine, Vulcan unleaded heads, 4
barrel Holley carburettor, Mallory ignition, Motobuild exhaust and much more.
RV8 louvred bonnet, five Minilites shod with Yokohamas and OMD race seats. A
new radiator, starter motor, overdrive and clutch have recently been fitted.

Apparently the cold start is good. Apart from the obvious leaks are there any tricks for tell tell signs of problems...??

Dave

['The Gaffer']

Sounds cool.

I can only suggest usual stuff. Try to arrive to a cold engine and look for smoke on start up, listen for knocks and rattles, put engine under a bit of load and again listen for knocks, turn your head and make sure there isnt a trail of blue smoke behind you.

Brake hard and see if car pulls to one side. Check that car drives in a straight line if you let go of the wheel.

Make sure gears dont jump out of sound rough. Try reverse too.

Check the cars history.

Usual stuff I know but the main advice I would give to anyone buying a car is to check out the seller, does he appear genuine, chances are if he does, then theres a good chance the car is genuine too.

Good luck with the viewing.

[David H]

cheers Phil, all noted. nice one

[PhilW]

Whats the 4.5l engine from? Tuscan racer?

[Richard]

I used to have 1967 MGB, fully restored it at the time, a friend had one of the factory built V8s. I also knew someone who made his living out of restoring MGs and Jag but if he owned an MG before he'll know all the classic MG issues / concerns.

I've seen a Jag V12 in an MGB before but it was a bit of a squeeze, a little bit more so than a V8.

[gingerpaul]

Keep an eye on the oil pressure when hot and cold to make sure it gives sensible numbers. The owner should want you to take it easy to allow the engine to warm up before nailing it as the oil will be quite thick (either that or it will leak, one of the two!). Once up to temperature the oil pressure will be low, but make sure it doesn't get below about 12psi. When cold the oil pressure should be kept below 65psi but may read as high as 45psi on idle if he's fitted a high pressure pump kit.

To be honest Rover V8s are pretty solid. Even if there is an engine problem everything is still available and they're easy to work on. The main thing I'd be looking at is where has the chassis been strengthened to cope with the extra torque. If it's not been done properly it'll be pretty sketchy to drive hard!

[David H]

Whats the 4.5l engine from? Tuscan racer?

Unlikely as he had it bored himself 15 years ago. I believe this was before simple kits to change stroke were available. But you never know...

[David H]

Keep an eye on the oil pressure when hot and cold to make sure it gives sensible numbers. The owner should want you to take it easy to allow the engine to warm up before nailing it as the oil will be quite thick (either that or it will leak, one of the two!). Once up to temperature the oil pressure will be low, but make sure it doesn't get below about 12psi. When cold the oil pressure should be kept below 65psi but may read as high as 45psi on idle if he's fitted a high pressure pump kit.

To be honest Rover V8s are pretty solid. Even if there is an engine problem everything is still available and they're easy to work on. The main thing I'd be looking at is where has the chassis been strengthened to cope with the extra torque. If it's not been done properly it'll be pretty sketchy to drive hard!

Will do!