GTM Winter Upgrades

[sanzomat]

I was thinking about putting the back end back on axle stands (only just come off them!), warming the engine then turning off and starting it in gear, getting some momentum in the engine then hitting the clutch and brake pedals at the same time. Softer option would be to just try the starter motor with it in gear, clutch pedal in and the brakes on.

I'll try moving the clutch arm a bit further by some means other than the slave first - if it disengages fine then I'll know its not stuck.

[Iancider]

If you parked the slave above the master while disconnected then there could have been an exchange of air/fluid back to the reservoir.

If it is a stuck plate then try to get it into any gear and bump it - warming it might help as FHO says.  Let us know if you need some hired grunt!

Ian

[sanzomat]

If you parked the slave above the master while disconnected then there could have been an exchange of air/fluid back to the reservoir.

Ian

Certainly did. In fact when I lifted the back end of the car up to roll the engine under the rear discs were higher than the master cylinder. I think I should probably bleed the brakes too!!

[sanzomat]

It was just the clutch plate stuck. Wasn't too stuck - unstuck it with just a prod of the starter with it in gear and clutch pedal pressed. It seems that 20mm travel of the slave is all it needs as the gears are all changing sweetly now. I will bleed it soon though and I've also planned to renew all the brake fluid too before long.

I took her out for a short drive and everything seems to work except for there were some worrying knocking sounds. I'd already decided before I looked that my cobbled attempt at a solution for the engine steady hadn't worked and sure enough it hadn't. I'd already realised it wasn't good enough and had decided on the right solution but had hoped it would hold out for a few weeks with the bodge but hey-ho. I've now started making a plate/bracket to transfer the fixings from the diff housing to the old Metro bracket rather than using a cobbled arrangement. Probably won't get to take advantage of the mild/dry weather this weekend though...

[CC Cyclone]

Good work. On the home run now.

[Iancider]

Not clear what the engine steady arrangement looks like here but make sure the steady is decoupled from the chassis through rubber bushes or you teeth will fall out!  There should be a quite a few older donors out there for suitable components.  I seem to remember candidates on the MGB and the Dolly Sprint.

Ian

[sanzomat]

The original metro bracket/bush is like this (picture borrowed from ebay). The metro gearbox has threaded holes in all the right places to bolt this on but the MGF box doesn't so its a case of making a transfer plate to get from some of the spare threaded holes that do exist and making use of a couple of the bolts that hold the diff housing together with some spacers to line it all up. I'm on with that. The voided bush gives plenty of isolation from the bar that goes back to the tub (maybe too much).

[Iancider]

Gosh it's a beast isn't it!

[sanzomat]

It isn't actually as big as it looks in that pic. The guy who took it must have tiny feet. Its an ali casting so actually pretty light.

[sanzomat]

Adapter bracket for steady bar now made and fitted. So, the car is now ready to drive  I was so keen to test drive it I nearly went out in the pouring rain but sense prevailed in the end. Desperate for some dry weather to try it out now! hopefully not too many bits will fall off during the shake down.

[Iancider]

hopefully not too many bits will fall off during the shake down.

And I hope the car is okay too!

[Moleman]

Good luck on the test drive. 

[sanzomat]

Gosh it's a beast isn't it!

That's what she said.

[Crunchie Gears]

Enjoyed your thread and great you are ready for the test drive. 

You will have to report the results soon as I cannot wait

[CC Cyclone]

And...And...And??!!

Weather looks fine to me for a test drive

[sanzomat]

And...And...And??!!

Weather looks fine to me for a test drive

Unfortunately work gets in the way sometimes. It was dry yesterday evening but it was my grand-daughter's first birthday and sometimes you have to get your priorities right. Forecast isn't looking good for this evening either...

[CC Cyclone]

It's better than that day we drove to Stoneleigh

[benchmark51]

Went out myself for a couple of hours, just to blow the cobwebs away. Got home just as the sky was darkening, put Ratbag away and the sun came back out again 

[sanzomat]

Managed to get out last night in the light drizzle and got back just as it started to rain properly.

It drives okay but there is a fairly pronounced misfire. Its mostly when you open up the throttle. There is quite a hesitation and then it splutters as it starts to pull and kangaroos a bit with the odd pop (not quite a backfire). I drove it for about 15 miles so it was properly warmed up but no improvement. Once it gets in its stride it smooths out and is happy to rev right up to over 7000rpm but still has the odd missed beat here and there. As it revs all the way I'm thinking the ECU must be getting all the right inputs from the various sensors as it is supposed to go into a limp mode and restrict the revs to around 5k if it picks up sensor faults. As such my thoughts are its most likely to be fuelling or spark.

So, I need to get Ian's mates Will and Percy (Power and Verance) round and do a bit more tinkering...

[Moleman]

Almost there then. 

[sanzomat]

Managed a couple of hours this afternoon. I swapped over the spark plugs from the old engine as I knew they were working okay and they are the same. Pulling off the HT leads I noticed they don't feel as tight as I expected on the plugs. The plug is deep down inside the head so hard to tell though. With a lead off and a plug out I found the metal part of the lead that is supposed to go over the plug "bullet" was so deep up inside the lead head that it was only just touching the plug, not going over it. I dismantled the lead head and found the actual lead part inside the plastic part that goes down inside the head is able to slide so when you try to push it onto the plug the lead retracts back. Made me think it was a wonder the engine was running at all as the HT must have been jumping from the lead to the plug! I pulled the inner right to the end and made sure it was on the plug then slid the outer down over the lead to close the hole in the cam cover. When I'd done all four I went out for another slightly drizzly run and she is now going much better but there is still a bit of a misfire. When I got back I opened the clam while the engine was still running and went to wiggle the HT leads and got quite a belt just touching the rubber outer - makes me think the insulation is breaking down so new HT leads seems like a good idea.

I had a bit of time left so I got on with another little job - replaced the hydraulic fluid in the clutch and brakes. I invested in an eezibleed. Had always struggled on with the old fashioned pumping method before but couldn't believe how easy and quick replacing the fluid is with one of these - wish I'd bought one years ago. Only took 20 minutes to replace the fluid/bleed the clutch and all four calipers. Actually the clutch seemed fine with virtually no air and the old fluid looked like new. Not so for the brakes, the old fluid was pretty yukky, dark orange/brown. The pedal feels much firmer now so well worth doing. So easy to do now I'll make this a much more regular event.

[Moleman]

That reminds me I haven't changed my brake fluid yet this year. That & a oil change is the last thing for me to do.

[Daley Down Under]

Good work mate - enjoyed following your winter activities

Cheers Adrian

[sanzomat]

My new HT leads arrived today so wasted no time and got them on this evening. Started easy and settled into a nice steady idle. As it's dry tonight I took her out for a short test drive...


.. That's more like it!! Running great now. Its been a while since I drove it with the old engine but I'm fairly confident it has got more go now than it used to. As it was dark and a bit cold (didn't bother putting the hood up) and my headlights aren't the best I didn't go too far or very fast but once warm I gave it few goes up to the red line in 2nd and it very willingly goes up to 7200 and feels to be accelerating pretty well. Doesn't seem to be all about the top end either as it seems quite grunty lower down too. Can't wait for some daylight and dry roads to have a proper test.

I do need to check the speedo calibration though. Seems to be over reading. Its showing 70 at 3000 revs but according to the spec it should be 20.7/1000 in 5th i.e. 62.1 at 3k. I'll have to find out how to re-set it.

[Facial Hair Optional]

I have a little digital head up display GPS speedo unit somewhere (if I can find it) you can borrow to check it if needs be Dave. I used it to set the digidash speedo in the Fury when it was out. I've tried it in two BMW tin tops and it is spot on.

[sanzomat]

I have a little digital head up display GPS speedo unit somewhere (if I can find it) you can borrow to check it if needs be Dave. I used it to set the digidash speedo in the Fury when it was out. I've tried it in two BMW tin tops and it is spot on.

Was going to use a sat nav with a speed display. When I got the current tin top it had one built in so I gave my old garmin away to my son but I'm sure he'll let me borrow it back (he better!) otherwise I'll give yours a go.

Whilst googling how to adjust the speedo (pretty sure its an ETB so found the instructions) I found the IVA speedo calibration rules - apparently mine would still pass as at an actual 70 its okay for the speedo to show as low as 57!

[Facial Hair Optional]

I have a little digital head up display GPS speedo unit somewhere (if I can find it) you can borrow to check it if needs be Dave. I used it to set the digidash speedo in the Fury when it was out. I've tried it in two BMW tin tops and it is spot on.

Was going to use a sat nav with a speed display. When I got the current tin top it had one built in so I gave my old garmin away to my son but I'm sure he'll let me borrow it back (he better!) otherwise I'll give yours a go.

Whilst googling how to adjust the speedo (pretty sure its an ETB so found the instructions) I found the IVA speedo calibration rules - apparently mine would still pass as at an actual 70 its okay for the speedo to show as low as 57!

That's mad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Talking of speedos etc I was told the other day that the old supposed system the police use of allowing you 10% + 3mph when doing you for speeding (ie at 60 you could get away with up to 69mph) is being got rid of due to digital speedos these days being so accurate. I'm not even sure if that 10% etc thing is an urban myth is it??

Anyway, no doubt it's really just another revenue collecting 'idea'!!!

[benchmark51]

Why not, easier than catching crooks.

[Iancider]

Those roadside speed warning signs are a quick and easy calibration - they are very accurate (cos they work on Radar Doppler Shift!). 

Just drive up to one slowly and gradually accelerate until it triggers its 30! warning and glance at the speedo. 

If it reads 10% up (e.g. 33mph) then the pulse rate during the calibration needs to 10% more pulses per mile.  It is wise to set you speedo, no matter how accurate, to over-read by 1-2% to allow for tyre pressure changing the rolling radius.

Ian

[sanzomat]

Lovely weather today so took my Spyder out for a decent run to test out the winter upgrades including starting out at the Queens Square meet in Bristol this morning. Really pleased with the car. The improvement in performance is actually better than I'd hoped for. Just one problem and thankfully not a big one. Had me worried for a while though! On hard acceleration I was getting a nasty metal on metal noise. Didn't sound engine related, more like something hitting something else and vibrating together. Lifting the rear clam there was nothing obvious but suspecting my welding on the gearbox mounting bracket I'd made I had a close look in that area and was able to see there was some paint removed and shiny metal on the clutch slave mounting bracket. The MGF slave bracket has to be cut down to fit anyway but it seems I didn't quite cut enough off. There is around 6mm of clearance between the bracket and the end of the tube part of the engine frame at rest but under hard acceleration the engine/gearbox must be moving enough to use this gap up so they touch and thus make the noise. To test this theory I put a cable tie around the bracket and went out for a drive and sure enough when I got back there was a dent in the plastic of the cable tie. I hadn't had the nasty noise so I think the cable tie must have prevented metal on metal contact. This won't last though so a bit more grinding will be needed - access not great though.

Other than that I'm very pleased. I hadn't actually expected the performance gain to be this much but I suppose 40bhp with no extra weight should be noticable. The gear change is SO much better. The clutch is smoother and more progressive. The steering is nicer (but heavy at parking speeds). No fluids seems to be leaking out and there doesn't seem to be any oil/water mixing so hopefully the head gasket is sealing okay. Touching wood but so far so good!!

[Facial Hair Optional]

You mean it's even quicker now?!! It was pretty darned nippy that time I followed you to Queen Square many months ago Dave. You'll be Billy Whizz on the roads now!

[damouk]

An excellent result Dave, with only a simple adjustment cant be bad, if only the V-storm was as straight forward... :/

If someone said they had gained 80bhp in a mini you would be impressed....? well it's roughly equivalent to your 40bhp. I think its that you brain benchmark's bhp against the weight of a tin top.

[Facial Hair Optional]

An excellent result Dave, with only a simple adjustment cant be bad, if only the V-storm was as straight forward... :/

If someone said they had gained 80bhp in a mini you would be impressed....? well it's roughly equivalent to your 40bhp. I think its that you brain benchmark's bhp against the weight of a tin top.

I take it you mean the 'new style' Mini Damo not the original? An extra 80bhp in the original (which I learned to drive in!) would be an awesome improvement! I'm sure mine never even had 80bhp to start with!    My instructor may argue though as I scared him half to death on the 1st lesson, he didn't know I had been driving on the road since 15 years of age!!! (only occasionally though so that is ok right?!!) 

[Moleman]

Glad it's all looking good Dave. We all have to do the odd tweak once the new mods are in but I'm glad it isn't much you have to do. 

[sanzomat]

As it was a nice crisp and dry morning but not quite cold enough to have ice on the tin top I took the Spyder to work today. Top down of course! Lovely way to start the day.

Sitting on the M5 from Almondsbury to Portishead I checked out the speedo versus the rev counter again and actually 70mph is showing at 3200rpm (not 3000). With my gearing being 20.8/1000 (not 20.7) 3200rpm should be 66.5mph so its actually pretty much where I want it. The distance to work and back is actually half a mile less in the GTM than in the Prius so more suggestion it isn't over reading. That means that when the speeds come up quicker than I thought I must actually be accelerating better!

No fluids showing on the garage floor.

Even the fuel consumption seems to be better than it was.

So far so good!

[Iancider]

The distance to work and back is actually half a mile less in the GTM than in the Prius

Sounds like you reeeeeeeeally stretched it Sanzomat!

[Gary RH7]

Good to hear you are back on the road and by the sounds of it HAPPY

[sanzomat]

Good to hear you are back on the road and by the sounds of it HAPPY

Certainly am 

Thanks, and welcome to Hero status!

[sanzomat]

I think I've found a few more BHP!

I thought my throttle body was the 52mm version (K series throttle bodies, plenum type not DTH, come in 48mm or 52mm) but I've now discovered its only the 48mm one. That means I can swap it over to 52mm and release a few more ponies! Just ordered one on a well know internet auction site.

I've read that lots of peeps with 1.4 and 1.6 K series fit a 52mm TB thinking it will give them a performance boost but actually 48mm is sufficient until you start to shift quite a bit more air than those engines can breath. The standard early VVC engines came with 48mm but the later ones used 52mm. My head mods, exhaust and K&N should add up to more flow than the 48mm can manage so the 52mm could release between 5 to 10BHP at full bore from what I've read.

[damouk]

That's a good bit of detective work, it always pays to check these things just in case, do you have a nice free flowing filter as well?