Another Triumph Spitfire

['The Gaffer']

Nice to see you back on the tools Rob

[robp]

Just found this old photo. 



This is when the car had some bodywork replaced before (back in the late 90s I believe).  Rear wings and valence, sills and rear wheel arches.

['The Gaffer']

Isn't it great to look back in time of a car's history

[fullpint]

Keep up the hard work Rob.. Rather you than me chasing that british rust around. I would love to undertake a slight resto job but my garage is a little to small, plus the Mk lives in it 

[YellaBelly]

I feel your pain Rob!

Well, after all the blood, sweat and tears we've put into the Midget, we are selling her. We thought about it and have decided that she will not get used enough to warrant the extra costs involved, so she is going up for sale.

If you know of anyone who may be interested let me know

Good luck on your Spitfire.

[Bulldog Bri]

Shame Lets see some pics of the car to see how far you got with it

[YellaBelly]

I've got a little more trim to refit and a couple of little bits to sort then I'll take some piccies for the sale. Might get it done this weekend mate

She's not too far from an MOT but I just haven't got the time now so I'll just have to take a hit on the sale.

[robp]

I'm just about ready to start welding the panels together that form the bonnet assembly.  The mating faces are currently bare metal.  Ideal for welding but it won't take long before moisture gets in there and the rust returns.

Can anyone advice me what I can do?  Is there a weld through primer that offers rust protection?

[benchmark51]

I think I would just complete the welding then give the seams a good etch prime and follow with seam sealer.
Never had a problem with that method.

[damouk]

I have some 99. bla bla % zinc content primer which claims to be weld through. I have no idea if its true as I have never tried.. and on top of that my welding usually looks like a flock of sparrows have flown past.

[robp]

I have some 99. bla bla % zinc content primer which claims to be weld through.

Yep.  I got some and tried it on a test piece.  It is indeed weld through.  I may try it out on the bonnet.

[robp]

I think I would just complete the welding then give the seams a good etch prime and follow with seam sealer.
Never had a problem with that method.

Thanks for the advice.  I've got some etch primer and I'll get hold of some seam sealer.

I'm just about ready to start welding everything up.  We're getting there! 

[YellaBelly]

Pictures Rob, pictures!

[robp]

This was the state around the NS headlight.

[robp]

The more I look around my spit the more work I find needs doing.

Yep, I know exactly what you mean!

[robp]

Here is a photo of the surgeon's tools.


This is some of the crap I've cut off the old bonnet. 


....that and about an inch of dust all over the garage! 


Mmm, must remember to remove the bonnet catches before I sling it out.

[robp]

The bonnet internal framework ready for spraying.


New outer wheelarch on.  Patterned panel went on easily.


Coming back together.


Mmm, more rust!


Nearly there.  I haven't had to replace the inner wheel arches (although I suspect they're not original).



This has been my first go at bodywork restoration and I've really enjoyed it.  Just as well as I'm sure there is plenty more work waiting for me on the rest of the car!   It's currently parked outside under a cover.  Plan is to get it back in the garage as soon as possible before the winter sets in properly.  The doors and one of the A pillars next.

[Daley Down Under]

Good progress Rob - keep it up 

Cheers Adrian

[Lucky Ed]

Nice work Rob - good to see it going back together

[Iancider]

Nice work Rob.

Most modern cars now have wheel-arch liners to prevent stone chips and the inevitable rust.  It looks like you could bond a rubber liner on those.  You can find 2 and 3mm Neoprene and EPDM black rubber on fleebay - just bond it on with impact adhesive.  It doesnt show when it is on and the crud doesnt stick to it.

Regards
Ian

[robp]

Pictures Rob, pictures!

How about your Midget, JB?  I'll be great to see how that looks now.  Managed to get it through a MOT yet?

[robp]

Most modern cars now have wheel-arch liners to prevent stone chips and the inevitable rust.  It looks like you could bond a rubber liner on those.  You can find 2 and 3mm Neoprene and EPDM black rubber on fleebay - just bond it on with impact adhesive.  It doesnt show when it is on and the crud doesnt stick to it.

Mmm, I hadn't considered that option, Ian.  I'll have a look into it.  I was just going to spray up with Waxoyl wheelarch stuff.

[robp]

Back in the garage again....




...before the rest rusts away!

[Iancider]

I had to look closely at pic 2 - I thought you had copped a parking ticket!

[benchmark51]

Probably a home made one. You put them on you screen to fool the parking tarts into thinking they have already got you, so they leave you alone.

[benchmark51]

 

[YellaBelly]

Pictures Rob, pictures!

How about your Midget, JB?  I'll be great to see how that looks now.  Managed to get it through a MOT yet?

Not yet Rob. We've moved again! Looong story, but we are now nearer the sea, so Jan is happy, and I have more workshop space than I can shake a stick at! So I'm happy too

I was going to sell the Midget as is, but we've decided to get her fully sorted, MOT'd then sell her in the spring so we will get a much better price.

Still got rich-running issues, so I think I'm going to have to get new main jets and needles. I cannot get it to lean out even with the jets screwed fully in.

Spit's looking good BTW

[robp]

Managed to have a look at the Spit again.

Brakes bled (at last!) after replacing the MS and half the piping and all work well. 

I'm planning on having a go at getting it running again.  This jar is what was in the float bowls.  No, I haven't been trying to run the engine on Marmite!  Does petrol go like this if left for a few months?



Whole fuel system needs a full flush through.

[Iancider]

Rob,

I think that might be the effect of Bio ethanol (alcohol) content in modern fuel.  Alcohol is highly miscible with water and water is conductive so that can cause bi-metallic corrosion.  Aluminium in-circuit is highly prone to attack and copper tends to leach out of the brass.  Over a long time the iron in the fuel circuit could leach out too.  Another possiblity is that it has been previously fuelled from a rusty jerry can - if so you should expect that the fuel filter will look even worse.  It might be worth inspecting the inside of the fuel tank for rust - if the plating has gone they rust fairly readily.  I have a viewerscope if you need one.

Regards
Ian

[benchmark51]

I remember from my spitfire days that fuel tanks rotted quite badly. Also old petrol takes on the smell of white spirit. Any doubt about the fuel tank, replace it. I've soldered them up only to have them go in another place. Moss of Europe list them at £230, part no RKC3395 (1500cc). Or make one up?

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/spitfire/fuel-system-induction-controls/tanks-pumps-pipes/fuel-tank-pipes-pump.html

[bluehornetrider]

If fuel is left long enough it will turn into jelly, or mouldy. Any fuel should be filter at least every 7 years. Modern fuel has too much ethanol for 40 year old fuel lines as it perrishes the rubber leaving black lumps in the fuel.

[YellaBelly]

If you haven't already got one Rob, fit an in-line fuel filter. I kept getting flooding from the bowls in the Midget because the needles stick at the slightest bit of muck in there. Fitted the filter and she's fine now. It would be a shame to go through all the cleaning etc. only to have it all clog up from muck in the tank/lines.

JB

[robp]

If you haven't already got one Rob, fit an in-line fuel filter. I kept getting flooding from the bowls in the Midget because the needles stick at the slightest bit of muck in there. Fitted the filter and she's fine now. It would be a shame to go through all the cleaning etc. only to have it all clog up from muck in the tank/lines.

JB

Yes, good advice, JB.  I do have a in-line filter before the carbs.  Also, since I fitted an electric fuel pump in the boot, I also have a Filterking there as a pressure regulator and that has a filter too.

[robp]

I remember from my spitfire days that fuel tanks rotted quite badly. Also old petrol takes on the smell of white spirit. Any doubt about the fuel tank, replace it. I've soldered them up only to have them go in another place. Moss of Europe list them at £230, part no RKC3395 (1500cc). Or make one up?

Yep, I may treat myself to a new tank. 

[robp]

So many things going on at the moment, the Spitfire has dropped down my list of priorities.  However, over the Christmas hols I managed to have a look at the old girl.

The engine just wouldn't start.  Not even a cough.  Squirt of Easystart, nope.  Therefore, it was likely to be ignition and sure enough the Lumenition wasn't getting any power.  Sorted that.

Still wouldn't have it though.  I had a look in the float chambers and one was dry.

... the needles stick at the slightest bit of muck in there. ...

Yes, stuck needle valve.  The other side was full though, but with the brownest fuel I've seen.  I emptyed the float bowl and then disconnected the fuel tank and purged the whole system with fresh fuel from a 5litre can in the boot.  Bingo, fired up instantly! 

Of course, I had to go for a quick drive.  No doors, interior, roof or boot-lid and with the whole front bodywork missing! 

[robp]

OK, how to sort out the rusty fuel tank.....

1.  Buy a new one.  Ain't cheap at about £230+

2.  Use this stuff.  Seems popular with many classic car folk.
http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-small-car-tank-repair-kit.html

3.  Use white wine vinegar.  Get some 40% stuff and let it sit in there for a while.  Cheapest option!

[Iancider]

Rob,

Good luck with this.  If it is rusty then the plating has failed and you have bare steel.  Weak acid will remove light rust but heavy rust in there would need to be brushed off.  I have a viewer-scope if you want to have a good look inside.  Bio-Ethanol in fuel is corrosive because it takes up water and any air with water equals more rust.  I can see why the repair kit would work because it would lacquer-coat the surface.

Hint: If you tap rusty metal you get a duller sound than the bell like "tink" response you get with good steel.  So if you get a dull response at the bottom of the tank it would be heavily rusted.  Steel tends to de-laminate along its rolling grain and while the rust might be thick, the good metal might be thin. As you are going to fill this with liquid explosive it is best to be sure about it.

My only worry would be if you repair it that it "might" still fail after you get the car reassembled and then you would regret not buying a new one with new protective plating on the inside.  For insurance you could then use the repair kit to lacquer the new one and be doubly sure.  All I can say from experience is that I have never regretted over-doing it but re-doing it costs more in time and money.  Hope that helps.
Ian

[Facial Hair Optional]

Only just discovered this topic, I didn't know you had a Spitfire Rob, I love those things!!!! Always wanted one in my youth but never managed to get one. Looked online at prices recently in fact, they seem to vary widely.

Maybe one day!

[Bulldog Bri]

Might have to have a look at this as well. The tank of the Locost has had so many tiny pinprick holes, I've patched them up with fuel tank putty but a new one seems to appear not long after. 

[benchmark51]

The best remedy would be a new one, but as you say pricey. A second hand one could be even worse than the one you have, although you may be lucky. Heres one on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321971375818?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or make one. Maybe adapt one from a seven. Thats the route I would use personally

Just spotted this Adapt it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-SEICENTO-FUEL-TANK-NEW-OLD-STOCK-/141866875188?hash=item2107ecb934:g:xKQAAOSwxN5WYDPm